Emaxx - Twisted Axle Shafts

I was running this weekend and after my 2nd pac, I noticed my Emaxx was running around kinda dragging the rear end, nose in the air. Drove it back and picked it up - rear end came back to normal ride height. When I pushed it down and let go, wouldn't spring back, would move about 1/4" back towards normal and then just stay.

Took a few minutes checking things, but noticed rear wheel axles shafts are twisted 1/2 - 3/4turn - the mating grooves in the 2 shaft pieces. Thats why suspension in rear won't rebound like its supposed too. Twisted axle shafts won't let it spring back.

I've read somewhere the 3.3 cvds fit (with 3.3 knucks and strg blocks), but have to clearance the A Arms for 3.3 cvds. Is this the only thing I need to do to run these - little light work with dremel?? I'm running S600 motors on 14 cells and they're def stronger than stock, so its time for an upgrade.

I'm running UE TI centers, so its just the wheel axles. Thanks!

[mkrusedc]

Do you have 3905 or 3906 model? I use 3.3 shafts without a problem on RPM arms. The problem was clearence with PowerStroke shocks not the arms.

[lincpimp]

Go for the stock 3.3 driveshafts and the 3.3 knuckles. You will also need 3.3 turnbuckles. They are all good upgrades and not too pricey if you search ebay. You may need to clearance your arms slightly near the diffs as the 3.3 axles will contact the arms at each end of the suspension travel.

[pipeous]

and glue wooden dowels inside the shafts to keep them from twisting. I used chopsticks. seriously. makes a huge difference

Thanks - I have the old Emaxx, bought used, not running, in sad shape. In good shape now and showing some power, lol! I have the 3.3 cvds, knucks and tb's on my flm Emaxx with the GM race suspension, but not quite finished yet. I did have to clearance the arms near the diffs so the ends of the cross pin would clear the arm.

If this the same deal, not much work as I suspected, wanted to be sure. The 3.3 stuff seems to be the best way to go. Notice ebayers now don't sell it all togther anymore - guess they weren't making enough $$.

[SixShooter]

It's only as strong as it's weakest link. The next thing I would look into if you haven't already done it, is the transmession and diffs. Aluminum diff covers is a must have...we was breaking plastic ones with stock Titans.

When I got this sad puppy, I went thru everything, changed to a set of tony's hex head alloy steel screws. New brgs everywhere, UE trans idlers and TI centers, trx wheelie bar and set of revo wheel and tires. Upgraded strg servo and new evx speedo. I shimmed the diffs and was close to replacing them, but wanted to get it up and running so stock ones went back in with fresh brgs. I have a set of UE 6 spyders in GA 7075 bulks ready to go if needed but hoping to use it on a nitro.

Diffs have been solid so far, but you're right eventually, one or the other will strip. Once 3.3 cvds are installed and that flex in the driveline is gone, diffs are the next weak link.

[SixShooter]

Yes sir, I went through the same thing with my son's Emaxx. It was junk from day one.

Anyhow, He's twisted shafts, stripped gears, and busted diffs all on the stock twin Titans. I guess a 3yr old is harder on parts Thats funny, he turns 6yrs old in a few weeks.