MMM Throttle curve progaming question....

I have the punch / traction control turned all the way to the max on my MMM in my savage but its still not enof. The savage still wheelie's and burns out too much for my taste so I want to program the throttle curve to tame out the bottom end to make a smoother response.

So what would a curve look like that would help tame the accelartion of this beast? As I dont really understand the throttle curve graph & stuff that the MMM can do.

[tc3_racer_001]

Originally Posted by BOOGIE444

I have the punch / traction control turned all the way to the max on my MMM in my savage but its still not enof. The savage still wheelie's and burns out too much for my taste so I want to program the throttle curve to tame out the bottom end to make a smoother response.

So what would a curve look like that would help tame the accelartion of this beast? As I dont really understand the throttle curve graph & stuff that the MMM can do.

you could try loosening your slipper clutch, just watch it deosnt melt (if its plastic)

[blueb8llz]

did you say you have the punch / and traction turned up the way up to the max? i think you need to turn it all the way down if you want it to be less torquey. and whats that traction control...i dont think ive seen that on the software...what does traction do anyways?
as far as the graph thing.. instead of it going from bottom left to top right. i would have it so it doesnt start moving up so fast...more like a hook...like check mark..instead of having it linear.

[Dafni]

What about your throttle finger?

Originally Posted by Dafni

What about your throttle finger?

My throttle finger is broke from running nitro for too many years, as it only knows how to grab full throttle instantly.

[Dafni]

I see. You'll have to learn it all over again then. You can't drive BL like nitro. Lack of grip, burnouts and wheelies are just one thing... broken gears and twisted shafts will be the next problem.

I don't know if you can "tune" it down as far as you'd like. If you just grab WOT, the throttle curve wont help much.

Good luck

Daf

[xtremelimits285]

Originally Posted by BOOGIE444

I have the punch / traction control turned all the way to the max on my MMM in my savage but its still not enof. The savage still wheelie's and burns out too much for my taste so I want to program the throttle curve to tame out the bottom end to make a smoother response.

So what would a curve look like that would help tame the accelartion of this beast? As I dont really understand the throttle curve graph & stuff that the MMM can do.

set timming to - 0%
acceleration/tracion to - 100%
(also higher ur lipo cutoff from anywhere 0.2v-0.8v higher then what u have, this will stop the car from pulling alot of amps AND it helps tame ur bottom-end alittle)

for the THROTTLE CURVE,
make it look like a half-pipe or quater-pipe..
(an play with it for 1 to 2 packs, as u can tune out ALOT of bottom-end Tq/Hp) run it for 2mins if u dont like it try pulling it over an down more around 30-70%, takes a lil bit but ull see how what chanes what
make it smooth curves btw..

[blueb8llz]

what does the timing do ? i thought that was mainly for brushed motors.

Originally Posted by blueb8llz

what does the timing do ? i thought that was mainly for brushed motors.

it increases power but also increases heat...in most applications low or normal is all you need

[xtremelimits285]

Originally Posted by blueb8llz

what does the timing do ? i thought that was mainly for brushed motors.

Originally Posted by azjc

it increases power but also increases heat...in most applications low or normal is all you need

its for brushless, u can increases or decreases power....

just think of it like a car distributor, on a sbc350 or 302sbf.....
normal timming is 10*, now if u turned it down o5-8* u lose/take away about 20hp, now if u up the timming to 12-15* ull gain 20hp


on our rc cars every 5* = about 50-100watts more...
20*(100-200watts more)
15*(50-100watts more)
10*(stock setting)
5*(50-100watts less)
0*(100-200watts less)

[blueb8llz]

ouuu thats very nice to know...pretty cool feature there with the timing thing?
so i guess if you were to do a drag race with somebody, you would prolly up the timing to the max since itll push out maximum power but since its only like 1-3 runs, your motor shouldnt get too hot...good idea?

[BrianG]

Yeah, increase your punch control to 100% and timing to lowest. You can try reducing the start power too, but watch out for cogging on starts.

Adjusting the throttle curve won't help much if you just grab WOT because the trigger will be at the max part of the curve right away. The curve is similar to setting exponential curve on the radio. It allows less throttle change at the beginning of the throttle trigger throw and then increases the rate as you squeeze it.

Like Daf said, a little finger control will do wonders.

Originally Posted by xtremelimits285

(also higher ur lipo cutoff from anywhere 0.2v-0.8v higher then what u have, this will stop the car from pulling alot of amps AND it helps tame ur bottom-end alittle)

Are you sure about that? Increasing the LVC will just cause the vehicle to stop a little sooner. If the motor pulls so much current that the voltage dips to LVC, you'd get a momentary "black out" of power until the voltage climbs back up. It's not like the MMM has a soft cutoff vs a hard cutoff, or does it?

Originally Posted by BrianG

Yeah, increase your punch control to 100% and timing to lowest. You can try reducing the start power too, but watch out for cogging on starts.

Adjusting the throttle curve won't help much if you just grab WOT because the trigger will be at the max part of the curve right away. The curve is similar to setting exponential curve on the radio. It allows less throttle change at the beginning of the throttle trigger throw and then increases the rate as you squeeze it.

Like Daf said, a little finger control will do wonders.



Are you sure about that? Increasing the LVC will just cause the vehicle to stop a little sooner. If the motor pulls so much current that the voltage dips to LVC, you'd get a momentary "black out" of power until the voltage climbs back up. It's not like the MMM has a soft cutoff vs a hard cutoff, or does it?

Only hard cutoff.