two fast questions!!!

[Revracer]

no i was just saying i melted hexs from the torque it was putting out. and saying that because of it i cant drive to test anything tonight. and yes i did pull the red wire and again once i get hubs i will put a 40 spur on it and see how that does.

and while looking around last night i found a guy who said he drilled holes in the side of his esc case and dropped his temps almost 20F. is that possible and should i try it? i really dont want to ruin a great looking esc if it wont do anything but if it would help that much then it might be worth it.

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by Sammus

and the turnigy HV is rated to 100A, just like the mamba.

Except that I'd rate the turnigy hv at 40A, not 100A. It can't handle as much power as a Phx-45HV. Why do you think it's so cheap? It's because the rating is crap.

[Sammus]

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Except that I'd rate the turnigy hv at 40A, not 100A. It can't handle as much power as a Phx-45HV. Why do you think it's so cheap? It's because the rating is crap.

Yeah I was going to point that out. Wasn't talking you down I promise, and most people on here should know how much I hate the turnigy.

I still stand by my point - seems like a lot of work for that poor little mamba max to be doing in stock form, and I'm not surprised its getting hot at all..

[Revracer]

I don't think I have done any damage to the ESC seeing as it works great on 6 cells still, but I think i messed up my lipo. It sweller up for a while, but it eventually came down and now looks normal. I have no idea what that means... It was really hot when I stopped. Well, warmer than it normally is and warmer than I've ever felt it before...

[Sammus]

so your esc and batteries are cooking? From everything I've read that suggesting either your binding somewhere in the drivetrain, or your overgeared.

[Wakesurfer]

I understand trying to keep the cost down, but seriously, get a temp gun andsave yourself some money on burned parts. The touch test is pointless, everybodies threshold for pain is different. $20 or $30 is cheap compared to motors, ESCs, and Batteries. If your LiPo puffed your drawing way to much current for it to handle. 5000mah x 20C = 100A. You should give yourself a cushion on that though. Kind of explains the hot MM to though. Going to have to work on the gearing to get the amp load down. I made an aluminum U bracket to go around my MM that I put in my Maxx. Put a large hole in both sides of the bracket and one in the top. There is room for 1 fan inside the U blowing right on the heat sink. The other fan is outside the U, blowing in through the large hole I put in the bottom of the case. I made smaller holes all the way aroundthe case to let air out. Servo tape and a zip tie hold the ESC in the U, drilled and tapped the AL for the fan screws. Made the ends of the U like L brackets and screwed them to the chassis on the Maxx. Using a CC BEC, still had a little steering issue, so I added a glitch buster cap to the Rx, but both servos died. New 333oz HiTech fixed the steering. With twin fans on 4S geared 18/68 motor (1512 1Y) and MM stayed under 150 until the fan on the heatsink failed. Thermalled right after main, but temp was down to 178 by the time I pulled the lid. Batteries were only 104/105 at the end of that run, but 2 @ 2S 8k can handle more than 1 @ 3s 5K. The MMM never went past 120 on 4S geared 20/68. I hate to say it, but the MM just isn't really meant for Monster Truck and it's going to struggle. If you can wait for the new version, the MMM should solve your problems with the ESC. Getting batteries that can feed the truck is a different story. Check with MaxAmps tomorrow and see if they can help you with the puffed 3s5K though. IMO, good people there and at Castle.

[Revracer]

yes the MM is just holding me over really. I am changing the gearing and going to run 4s soon. I think I am going to try out some Yeah racing 3200 2s packs. Run them together as a 4s and gear it probably 15/40 to start, and drop to 14/40 if i need too

[Revracer]

So I have to ask one last question! sorry two fast questions turned into 50 long ones... If I were to run twin 3200 or twin 4000 packs to make 14.8 and lowered my gearing, would it drop temps? Would simply adding more power lower the amp draw on the motor? I am sending my maxamps in tomorrow or monday and found two packs that are both inexpensive and from what ive read good batteries. One is a copy of the orion 3200 pack and the other is a proteck. Ive heard good things about both. I could get the yeah racing ones for $35 a pop and make a 4s for only $70, but doing that and lowering my gearing, would it keep things cooler?

[Sammus]

Zippy lipolys from hobbycity are also a pretty good choice for cheap lipos. I've had good experience with them.

IT might keep things cooler, its hard to say. If you gear to same speed it probably will. I don't know what gearing your running, but use brians speed calc to gear it to around 35mph and I imagine it might run a little cooler.

[Revracer]

Well I am running a 15/38 right now with close 2 speed. Still running the 2 speed as well. The lowest I can get it is a 14/40 and geared on 4s its still geared for 42mph according to BrianGs calc. I am currently running supposedly at 35, but it seems like its going way faster than that to me. It seems faster than it was with a 3.3, which was geared 15/36 with standard ratio. Ad the standard ratio over close is worth a good 2-4 mph on top speed. With a differential conversion from RCM i could get it around 35-38mph. But I don't think I can drop $125 on a differential system... especially considering I am goign to try and change the motor to something with a lower KV sometime down the road, and then wont need the diff conversion...

and hobbycity doesnt have any zippy packs in. Not even the 2200 packs. And I don't want to buy a 4s pack, I want to be able to run twin 2s...