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FLM Chassis - Roll Bar??? -
07.31.2008, 04:43 AM
I have been wondering something - do any of you guys use a roll bar of some description, or do you just let the towers take the brunt??
Cheers =)
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Yip Yip Yip...
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Australia
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07.31.2008, 07:14 AM
I'm wondering the same thing. What do you think would be better for the body? I'm thinking a roll bar would help the body out.
Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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07.31.2008, 07:20 AM
hmmm - i'll do some thinking for a lil bit and see if i can come up with something simple enough...
In the mean time - i've contacted FLM about it, and i'll see what they come up with - probably nothing useful - but you never know ;)
Last edited by danhfvcsd; 07.31.2008 at 07:31 AM.
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Guest
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07.31.2008, 11:47 AM
i use the plastic rollbar from the x, not the part that used to cover the engine, just the plastic "handle" but it doesn't do anything towards protecting the electronics since it mounts all the way up at the transmission...i smashed all my electronics from not having something back there, the towers compress too easily...im thinking of making something out of extra engine plate braces for the esc and battery...but i don't want it to stick out of the body (pickup truck body)
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 974
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Midland, MI
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07.31.2008, 01:36 PM
i dont use anything but i would like too. To be honest i was jsut going to make something for it but if someone makes one and distributes it i will buy it. I already might need to get new FLM towers soon. They are tough but the have scratches an ground down the corners. I always seem to drive better on my lid.
I fly, I drive, but most of all I crash.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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07.31.2008, 04:13 PM
I was thinking of building one out of AL tubing for my Maxx conversion
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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Yip Yip Yip...
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Australia
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07.31.2008, 07:25 PM
This would be perfect if it was around the other way and longer of course http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...n&part_id=2510. If this went over the tranny then all the way back to the rear shock tower it would stiffen the rear shock tower so it wouldn't flex down and crush the electronics in a big rear end landing.
Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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"If you can't beat em'....shoot em'
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sunny So-Cal (Orange County)
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07.31.2008, 07:58 PM
I've never used one on any of my project, beside weighing you down, what real advantage does it have (?), will it really save your motor, ESC or is it so we don’t trash or bodies (?) sorry for the stupid question.. I just never got the hole Roll bar thing in RC's..
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Location: Midland, MI
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08.01.2008, 08:25 AM
for nitro a roll is almost a must if you bash, on pavement if you don't have a roll bar and you flip it on its lid good you will bend the fins up and scratch it all up. The roll bar protects both of these from happening. With bent fins your nitro will not cool down correctly and the scratches just look horrible.
Electric on the other hand i dont think it is really needed but couldn't hurt. Especially in the FLM chassis where everything is inside the chassis anyway. You can take the ESC mount off and flip the ESC on its side and you should be able to keep the ESC completely inside the chassis. I will try this tonight and post pics of what i am saying.
As far as protecting your bodies is ridiculous. The body still hit the pavement before the roll bar so how does this change anything other than MAYBE helping not crack as much.
All the above is MO.
I fly, I drive, but most of all I crash.
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Guest
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08.04.2008, 06:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by bl-is-future
Especially in the FLM chassis where everything is inside the chassis anyway. You can take the ESC mount off and flip the ESC on its side and you should be able to keep the ESC completely inside the chassis. I will try this tonight and post pics of what i am saying.
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you mean like this? =)
(Before you say anything - i know the motor is too small - it's just there to fill the space till i order the 1950... but i MAY be pushing it with the esc there - it may have to deal with only about 10mm of wire and a plug in the end for the motor to make room -lol-)
Last edited by danhfvcsd; 08.04.2008 at 06:44 AM.
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Guest
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08.04.2008, 11:26 AM
thats a good idea with the esc...but wouldn't a mm cool better if it was vertical because of the fins being on the top and heat rising and all that...and in my case i dont think i have enough room to put the mm and fan inside the chassis with my 8000mah lipo
and i just recently smashed an esc because i landed upside down
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Location: Midland, MI
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08.04.2008, 12:33 PM
yep like that but i tried my MMM and it wont fit with a 5s with the spacers installed but i think it would with a 4s batt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by danhfvcsd
you mean like this? =)
(Before you say anything - i know the motor is too small - it's just there to fill the space till i order the 1950... but i MAY be pushing it with the esc there - it may have to deal with only about 10mm of wire and a plug in the end for the motor to make room -lol-)
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I fly, I drive, but most of all I crash.
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Guest
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08.04.2008, 01:23 PM
i totally forgot all about those spacers...do they change the handling or strength of the vehicle at all since it is wider on one side and not the other?
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Guest
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08.04.2008, 06:20 PM
at first, i tried to use those spacers, and failed miserably...
What did you do when you got to lining up the TVPs/chassis to the bulks/skid etc on the front and rear end???
The thing i dont like is that wasted space beneath the esc mount, so i am considering setting it up like this - the capacitors are quite close to the bulks tho, although i can probably slightly bend them out of the way... will have to wait till i get the 1950 before i can make any decisions from here tho...
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