Hyper 8.5 pro build

[MTBikerTim]

I take it the motor mount you have is for the hyper 7. Could you just buy the hyper 7 centre diff mounts and use those to hold the diff instead of the 8 diff mounts?

[kyosho501x]

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

any suggestions? im stuck and out of money... this project will have to wait a little longer i think

sell stuff!

[tc3_racer_001]

yeah im going to buy the mounts off a hyper 8 off a friend... occured to me after seeing kyosho's build :)

ebay it is, pitty ive already sold stuff of worth... who wants random screws for $500! lol.

[tc3_racer_001]

ok, i managed to get a complete hyper 8 diff new for $20 which included everything and a new spare (non leaking...) centre diff :)

so im happy and its now securely mounted. thanks for the suggestions :)

also my motor STILL hasnt been shipped and castle doesnt knoew exactly whats going on... at least the monster max seems to be coming down the track fairly soon.

ive also got stiffer springs and another body which will actaully fit this time on the way...


o and i bought 2 lipos. premium power, suposedly with enderland cells, im not sure. soft case, 4700mah 20c. will these be enough to power the hungry 1512 2d ive ordered??? ive got a pinon of 12teeth which should be good with these packs. lighter than my a123 packs too. any suggestions? ive set myself the task of making plastic cushioned holders (hard cases) for them, which i will use and to make them the same dimensions as the a123 packs. :)
ryan

[kyosho501x]

sweet, almost done huh?
im probably gonna get some 5s lipo(neuenergy) can't wait to see those hard cases
BTW what body did you get?

[tc3_racer_001]

it will still be a while yet, dont you worry about that! they havent arrived yet (supposed to be dropped off here today) but when i get them i will post some ideas/pictures... they are 270g each though... 540g of batteries is quite a bit still!!

[tc3_racer_001]

another update! hoorah.

cut the servo plate (opted for the aluminium one over the pro fibre one as it was easier to cut), and sanded it down.

recieved my motor today (1512 2D S) really nice a bit grubby but i cleaned it up nice. has a great green tinge to it, love it! absolutely no play in the shaft and easy to spin.

BUT i also bought mikes neu end cover (updated version) and i cant figure out how its supposed to go on. there are the 3 wires, then a bit of plastic stuff (like fuel tubing almost) then a thick black rubber cover protruding 3-5mm from each wire... how on earth do i get this cover on!

pic soon. any advice.

also how does it stay there?? (i assume u force it over the plastic rubber bits and that holds it on.

i also cut a bit of lexan and blocked up the front of the motor (yes im paranoid!)

will these covers hurt temps or not really?




i need help with battery placement guys!

its too low to stack 2 sick packs of a123 under on the other side opposite to the motor, so i need some suggestions. i also thought about cutting off the centre screw mount thing on the skid plate (and gluing or something the middle of it down) then see if it will fit then... the other option is to mount it above the centre diff and make a brace above the rear brace... so im stuck... HELP!!!

[tc3_racer_001]

quick little update:

one of the a123 batteries refuses to charge up past 3.37 while the other cell charges properly to 3.7v... charger bleeds off voltage until i gave up after 3 or so hours...
weird thing is, it has no less voltage drop or performance than the other pack when tested with the Watt meter in my touring car (which is now broken!)

well it works! thanks to all who helped, much appreciated.

but: i borrowed my friends Mamba Max (originally mine in my e-savage, sold it as a package, thinking id get a monster max 4 months ago ) and it ran great.

but its SLOW :(

only 47.2km/hr on a flat road with a 16t pinion...

SO

im going to sell the a123 batteries (as ive decided id like to try racing and i cant fit the batteries properly, as they just dont fit with the shell on ANYWHERE....


and with the money i get (used 3 or so times since new, should get close to $100)

buy a zippy lipoly, as ive read nothing bad and just cannot afford to buy a neu (id rather buy one now, use it, it die in 4 or so months and buy again, than save for 4 months and buy a neu and risk ruining it...)

also destroyed the esc in my touring car (go figure), one of the caps on the top just went poof just turning it on, when id used it for 1/2 an hr and just checked the temps (which were 5 or so above ambient! GRR)

o well, thats life :)

BUT

ive got a quick decision. should i go with 4s and the 1512 2D with the 16t pinion, or should i get a 5s and gear down to a 13t (or so) pinion? (i have 13, 14 and 16). which setup would run the coolest? (would the reduced current draw of the 5s pack outweigh the increased motor temps from spinning faster!) (4s=37700K 5s= 45900K rpm unloaded)
pack 1:

3 month warrenty, which is great, good 25C -35C rating... if that means anything with these,
4000mah (150x50x37, 581g)

OR

Pack 2:

4800mah, 25(minimum?)-35C, 170x43x45mm, 636g

now, i need to do 15-20 minute mains without thermalling or damaging anything... is this at ALL? realistic with either of these packs.

also the 2nd one is $1 cheaper and is exactly the same dimensions as the new polyquest packs so im thinking these are either reject cells which are still good or excess with some other problem. i can live without spectaular performance, just something that works and keeps on working :)

also they are heavy, and the question is, will they fit well under the cover?

thanks guys. also, would the motor overheat without any cooling? (covered front/end + no holes in body) seemed to run cool (got a temp gun on the way, finally...) for the 10 minutes i had it going, (would start to burn your hand after 15 secs of holding it on the 14t pinion on dirt doing spins and stop start etc, trying to get it as hot as i could :)

thanks again guys,
ryan

[tc3_racer_001]

well finally the day has come when its alive and working...







custom battery tray and acrylic top protector. still have to cover over those nucience nitro related holes! any tips??

hit the track and i need to learn to drive haha.

stripped the plastic servo horn which is an easy fix, only put 1300mah into the pack after 10 mins of use - was afraid of using to much HAHA> next time ill go for 15-20 minutes - cutoff i set at 3.3v/cell. the zippy is .1v out of balance at most. 110+ amp spikes with 1200W peaks!! WOW> impressive :)

very happy with it. and my esc is still working...

[MBX5's]

I'd jus buy a new body, at any rate Please keep me posted on how she handles, I can only speak of nitro when I say this but, my Hyper 8.5 Pro buggy was one of the best handling buggy's I've ever run, and I've run just about all of em. Looks Good.

[tc3_racer_001]

well im not the greatest driver, decided to stick myself in with the lowest (C's) 1/8 nitro buggys and came 3rd once and 4th three times. not bad considering it was the first time on that track.

thenm plenty of people were having issues with their engines HAHAHA and left.

by the time the final round came around we decided a 15 minute A and B buggy race would be fun (usually 6 minutes). i decided i may as well try and see if i could strech 15 minutes from it, and charged the battery once again. when i looked at the printout, i was starting in first place. then another electric guy was annoyed cause he couldnt race the 20minute A final let alone the 15 minute one, so when he was put into last place in the B final he wasnt happy. 45 minutes later, they sorted it out and thankfully my battery could finish charging!!!

he was running a novak and his esc came off the track @ 75C, batteries were cheap ebay ones, and were 58C and his motor with aftermarket heatsinks (plural) and fans (plural) were at 75C after a 6 minute race. haha he managed to thermal it in the last qualifier 5 minutes in.

in the shade under a shelter shed/open garage it was 33C and in the sun it was over 50C. with a nice gentle breeze cooling us off.

anyway, the buggy performed reasonably well, i was running a 13t/46 combo and never really hit top speed. loved it how i overtook the vspecs and navarossis down the straight!! (they were not impressed :P)

after 6 minutes i came in to check motor temp, and it was hot but still within spec so i kept going. 2 laps later (long track, record is 48 seconds, i was running 55's) i came in and it was only a few degrees hotter (66C) so i took it out again, next temp was 76C!!!*%$( i let it rest for 20 seconds then took off again, took it a bit easy around the track but not exactly slow! came in again and it was 65C? weird. anyway i was a bit comfused but continued racing and the temp after that was 68C. so i finished the race and it was at 65C.

can anyone expain this fluctuation in temps, and yes they are HOT but how can i fix it? i driled out holes and cut the side window and folded it out to create a scoop thingy.

im pretty confident it didnt go over 80C = 176F which is top of recommended temp range, and 200 (93C) is max before damage right?

i will drop down to a 12t and see if that makes a difference. im probably on 1/4 -1/3 thottle the entire way around the track and WOT down the straight. When driving around my place in 20 minutes (in the shade though?) it never got above 145F (which is good) the only difference is that im ALWAYS (90% of the time) on the throttle, whereas in my yard its lots of juice then coast then juice then coast) probably a 50% duty cycle....


any suggestions? i was running (as an experiment) 3-30-5 in the diffs (F-C-R) and it was suprisingly good, i need more steering on power though. ( at slower speeds)


long post!!