What Do I need for Competition?

[brushlessboy16]

Getting a list ready as I have Decided to Race the 2009 season in the truggy class at the local Track.. I have a Cen Matrix truggy FRE edition. Right now I have an Airtronics M8 radio, and a Duratrax Sx-200 metal geared servo.
I want to do a truggy diff conversion with a small (46t) buggy spur gear so i can use Mike's mount.
I plan to:
-Get standard Truggy diff gears
-Do the small gear mod 66tooth spur down to a 46.
-Get the RC-monster Cen mount
-Get 17mm hubs and Proline LRP crime fighters

I hope to:
-A decent driver
-Get a Spectrum module for my radio
-Get 2 ROAR 2s packs.
-Get a decent servo



My Current setup is:
Castle creations Neu 1515 1y
5s 4000mah zippy lipo (being repaired)
V2 MMM (being replaced with v3)
Proline Bowties


The Specs of my current servo:
Speed: 0.20 sec/60° @ 6.0V
Torque: 124 oz-in (8.9 kg-cm) at 6.0V
Very slow IMO, but what would you guys recomend?

The best guy on here to answer your questions on the CEN is probably JHautz, he built the Matrix TR Fre that I bought off of him and let me tell you its just plain sick. Its got pretty much every upgrade/trick done to it to handle the brushless motor. Unfortunately I have like an hour of run time on it then my MMM crapped out on me and still waiting for my V3 to show up.

My tips for you are:

- Def get the Spektrum or other DSM at some point makes life much more hassle free as you dont have to worry about frequency conflicts. However if money is an issue then you can save this upgrade for later as most people are running DSM so there is usually a lot of channels available at races.

- IMO the best servos for the money are ACE, the DS1015 is just plain awesome, you may see other servos rated better, but I think the ACE's numbers are under rated and the price on them is good. They are a little power hungry and the nitro guys complain, but shouldnt be an issue in an electric truggy unless you are using a separate power pack for it.

- You def. want at least a set of bow ties and crime fighters for tires, that will give you a decent tire in most conditions, may not always be the best setup for the track but it will almost always be good. You can also mix and match them is you need more drive in the rear and more lateral grip up front run the bowties on the back and crimes on the front, etc.

- I have the Mikes mount on my Cen and it works well, but as you note above a smaller spur gear must be used with Mikes mount. Here is what JHautz wrote in his description of my truggy:

. All 3 difs have been upgrades to the Hotbodies hardened dif sets for 2 reasons. The hardened HB difs are the strongest around and stand up to the insane brushless power, and the front/rear difs now run at a lower ratio (10/43) than the standard CEN difs (11/38) which allows a 46T center diff gear to be run rather than the huge (and kind of ridiculous) 66T Cen center gear. The center diff is also a Hot Bodies hardened diff set with the 46T gear. The center dif mount has been replaced with the RC-Monster.com Kyosho brushless motor mount and a matching stock Kyosho dif support. It is a direct bolt in replacement. The holes all line up perfectly. This modification lowers the diff down closer to the chassis vs. the stock diff position for a lower center of gravity and it keeps the motor mounted as low as possible also to keep the center of gravity low for better handling.

- Here is what he wrote regarding the 17mm hubs:

the wheel hubs have all been converted to the DACE Manufacturing offset 17mm hubs so it can run any 17mm zero offset truggy wheel and be the stock width. This required installing the Cen buggy axles in the rear and adding a spacer behind the hub on the CVD to allow the correct alignment of the 17mm hubs. The spacer on the front CVDs also solves the problem of the front CVDs occasionally popping out of the front drive cups on a very hard front landing but positioning them farther into the drive cup.

Hope this helps you out a bit with your upgrades to the Matrix TR to get ready for racing. If you have any other questions let me know and I will try to help out.

[stum]

Actually the JR DS8711 servo's are the best on the market.. I picked up mine watching ebay for 110. shipped each, but typically are pretty close to 130 if you don't look. You're doing something wrong if you ever need another servo... not to mention a 3yr warranty, that you won't ever need. SICK! 400+torque and .15sec for speed.. pretty much unbeatable.

http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Def...rodID=JRPS8711

Originally Posted by stum

Actually the JR DS8711 servo's are the best on the market.. I picked up mine watching ebay for 110. shipped each, but typically are pretty close to 130 if you don't look. You're doing something wrong if you ever need another servo... not to mention a 3yr warranty, that you won't ever need. SICK! 400+torque and .15sec for speed.. pretty much unbeatable.

http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Def...rodID=JRPS8711

As I mentioned in my post that it was my opinion (IMO) that the ACE was the best. The JR is a great choice as well, but I've had good luck with the ACE servos and I will stick with them.

[brushlessboy16]

Fast XR, thank you very much i basically studied Jhautz thread :D
It that strong of a servo actually needed? i was looking at the DS1313
Specs:
# Transit time: 0.13 sec/deg @ 6V
# Torque: 12.5 kg/cm (173.6 oz/in) @ 6V

with my current servo i have never had a problem with Low torque, just the speed kills me, i have messaged many people over the past 2 days, all say the cen likes to understeer just a bit no matter what setup, and have suggested going with the BowFighter combo.. Crime fighters in the front and bow ties in the rear to make it handle well

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Fast XR, thank you very much i basically studied Jhautz thread :D
It that strong of a servo actually needed? i was looking at the DS1313
Specs:
# Transit time: 0.13 sec/deg @ 6V
# Torque: 12.5 kg/cm (173.6 oz/in) @ 6V

with my current servo i have never had a problem with Low torque, just the speed kills me, i have messaged many people over the past 2 days, all say the cen likes to understeer just a bit no matter what setup, and have suggested going with the BowFighter combo.. Crime fighters in the front and bow ties in the rear to make it handle well

Definetly follow what Jhautz mentions in his thread, my truggy is very well built.

No the 1015 is NOT needed, I am actually running the DS1313 in my truggy and it has more than enough power and speed for what I need.

I have been using the bowfighter combo on my nitro Matrix buggy to combat the same understeer setup and give me good drive out of the corners at the bowties really hook up in a straight line. I cant really speak for the truggy as I mentioned that I only have about an hour run time and got 5 laps at the track before my MMM conked out.

[brushlessboy16]

at least yours didnt shoot fire...

....in front of the nitro guys

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

at least yours didnt shoot fire...

....in front of the nitro guys

Naw it didnt do that, it died a silent death. Im actually pretty sure it was just a bad switch, but I didnt want to mess with it and void my warranty.

I did however wish I had brought one of my nitros with me so I didnt make a trip to the track for nothing.

[brushlessboy16]

[George16]

and have suggested going with the BowFighter combo.. Crime fighters in the front and bow ties in the rear to make it handle well

I used to run bowtie or holeshot mtr with proline zero offset rims in front and CF mtr on proline 1/2" offset wheels in the rear of my tmaxx. The wider rear adds stability while the zero offset rims in front helps in turning ability. This is on top of the Hitec 5955TG servo I used for steering.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by George16

I used to run bowtie or holeshot mtr with proline zero offset rims in front and CF mtr on proline 1/2" offset wheels in the rear of my tmaxx. The wider rear adds stability while the zero offset rims in front helps in turning ability. This is on top of the Hitec 5955TG servo I used for steering.

Right now i have all Bows, with 1/2 ofset rims and they are great, no stability issues at all.

[brushlessboy16]

So far I have:
Reckward Tuning PBR Extra Hard Progressive Rate Truggy Spring Set
2x CEN Racing 17mm Wheel Hub (2)
2x CEN Racing 17mm Wheel Nut (2)
Pro-Line White Pre-Mounted Crime Fighter LPR Half Offset M2 Monster Truck Tires (2)
Pro-Line White Pre-Mounted Bow Tie LPR Half Offset M2 Monster Truck Tires (2)
CEN Racing Wing Mount
2x Hot Bodies 10T Spiral Bevel Gear (Lightning Stadium)
2x Hot Bodies 43T Spiral Conical Gear (Lightning Stadium)
Ace R/C DS1313 Super Torque Digital Servo
Kyosho 46T Spur Gear
Rc-Monster Cen Matrix Mount
Rc-Monster 12t Hardened steel Mod1 pinion


Grand total comes up to 350 dollars..

Im hoping my local track isn t ROAR rules or i will have to buy new lipos

[MetalMan]

Just curious, why get 2 ROAR-approved packs? You can get less weight, more power, and less wasted space out of a standard shrink-wrapped pack. In any case you will definitely want another battery.

Another good servo choice is the Airtronics 359 - 200oz./in. and 0.10sec., and they can be had for $110 easily. This is what is in my Jammin' X1-CRT.
However, I really like the feel of the Hitec 5955-TG (now 7955-TG). It's rated at 333oz./in. and 0.15sec., but is an INCREDIBLE servo. It throws the tires like they're nothing.

One list thing, stick with a steel spur. If your gear mesh changes for whatever reason, you WILL strip the Kyosho spur gear. And Mike's pinions will have no problem with a steel spur, so even if the mesh does change no harm will be done.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by MetalMan

Just curious, why get 2 ROAR-approved packs? You can get less weight, more power, and less wasted space out of a standard shrink-wrapped pack. In any case you will definitely want another battery.

Another good servo choice is the Airtronics 359 - 200oz./in. and 0.10sec., and they can be had for $110 easily. This is what is in my Jammin' X1-CRT.
However, I really like the feel of the Hitec 5955-TG (now 7955-TG). It's rated at 333oz./in. and 0.15sec., but is an INCREDIBLE servo. It throws the tires like they're nothing.

One list thing, stick with a steel spur. If your gear mesh changes for whatever reason, you WILL strip the Kyosho spur gear. And Mike's pinions will have no problem with a steel spur, so even if the mesh does change no harm will be done.

ROAR packs only if they are sanctioned by roar. yes its less weight etc, but rules are rules..... (and loopholes are loopholes)

i think 150 oz of tq qould be adequate for a truggy, 175 is perfect IMO, 333 is rediculous :D but also it costs almost 50 dollars more

I know that the pinions are fine with steel spurs ( the stock is a cnc hardened 66t unit) but its just rediculously loud I will look into metal gears

[MetalMan]

Steel on steel is not necessarily loud - my buggy with steel on steel is actually no louder than steel on plastic, and my truggy isn't far off.