clowkoy: I'm not the speed freak, but I think the truck should go just fine and accelerate faster than nitro version.
Should - because there will be snow and ice in here for atleast next three months, so not much grip available for serious testing...
Anyways, this is what I got from the
top speed estimator:
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1.8894009216589862
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 47
Pinion Tooth Count: 16
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1668
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.69
Tire Ballooning (inches): 1
Motor Current Draw: 66
Motor coil Ω: 0.0114
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.94 : 1
Total Ratio: 18.35807 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 27.3 inches (693.43 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 35774.6 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 50.38 mph (80.93 km/h)
Estimated Adjusted Speed: 47 mph (75 km/h) - 7% loss
Effective KV Value: 1611.47
KT constant: 0.81 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.28 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 5.12 ft-lbs
Final Power: 1465.2 watts (2 HP)
Savage03: There are three spots that you should check:
- to keep left bearing on it's place, use something that fits the axle and is the right lenght.
I used inner part of E-Maxx front driveshaft, which was cut to right lenght.
It is possible to use the clutch from 3rd gear, just remove all the moving parts.
- to remove sideplay from the axle, I used two 6mm shims between bearing & c-clip
- to remove sideplay from maingear axle, I used one 8mm shim behind right bearing
Shim could also be put to the left side, depends from the position of idler & main gear, the goal is to get them "inline".
The amount of shims may vary between transmissons, so just check that you remove excessive play and the gears still roll smoothly.
Can't remember from where I bought the shims, but atleast the 6mm ones do have a HPI part number.
First gear can be removed completely.
I left all three gears to the input shaft (where slipper & spur are) - it could also be reduced to one gear with proper spacers, but seemed a little too much hassle...