Modified Tekin R1Pro

[razo125]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

The chip underneath is a transient supressor and the the extra leads are for a cap normally a 35v 2200uf or 25v 2700uf depending on voltage

Anyone know what rating the transient suppressor is? A transient supressor is basically a cap since thats what a cap does in this application.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by razo125

Anyone know what rating the transient suppressor is? A transient supressor is basically a cap since thats what a cap does in this application.

Sorry for delay, ...
27V
Have you read my step by step instructions with links and everything?

Transient supressor is not a cap, where you get this from? link please...

[razo125]

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Sorry for delay, ...
27V
Have you read my step by step instructions with links and everything?

Transient supressor is not a cap, where you get this from? link please...

Thanks Artur, I saw your pics on this thread but I didn't see a link to the components used. I'm really interested in getting one of these cases for my setup. Right now I'm running 6s with no heatsink or fan with no heat issues, but its still cold out. I need to get ready for the Arizona summer. :)

Your right its not a cap, I wasn't familiar with the term transient suppressor so I looked it up. It's basically a device that prevents a voltage from going over a set value with a quick response time. In this case 27v. (kinda like a quick responding zener diode?)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transie...pression_diode

I originally thought it was a specialized capacitor but with a extra low ESR rating. (fast cap) I figured in this application, the electrolytic caps have basically the same function of filtering the voltage spikes. Turns out it compliments the caps by filtering the spikes in a different way. I got this from the r1pro thread on the tekin website, he talks about the reason for the external caps.

The key is ripple current. They need a high enough voltage overall, but they are there to absorb current during the switch off of the fets to keep the voltage line from spiking high. The caps are suppressing ringing on the voltage line and trying to keep the battery line constant. Putting them in parrallel effectively doubles the ripple current ability. 1/8 and mod 1/10 is pulling some serious current and then trying to stop it instantly. Unlike voltage, current does not like to start and stop instantly... it is more like water flowing and builds voltage pressure when you try to stop it instantly.

As the caps get larger they can also help hold the voltage up slightly during the on time by supplying current. This only works for very short durations at high frequencies. They are more about about filtering extremely fast voltage changes than power in our applications.... That is why they need to be mounted very close to the circuit and dangling them on wires reduces the effectiveness significantly.

Tekin Prez

The heatsink case is a great idea and the finned setup looks even better! I was also thinking about mounting it to the chassis using a thermal conducting pad to transfer heat straight to the chassis. This would make the whole aluminum chassis a heatsink. Can I order 2 of the heatsinks from you?

Cheers!
Ernest

[Arct1k]

They were made by mike - you could try emailing him

[razo125]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

They were made by mike - you could try emailing him

Can you PM his email? thanks!

[jhautz]

Rc monster mike @gmail.com or mike @rc-monster.com

[remove spaces from email addresses when sending them to Mike]

[SpeedAssault]

cool

What application? battery, motor ?

[suicideneil]

Application = 1/10 and 1/8 scale buggies/truggies and MTs.

Battery and motor = depends on specific setup, but think of it (the esc) as an MM on steroids- will handle 5-6s lipo okay, but the more current you pull, the more cooling you ideally need.