RCM CRT .5 Extended Chassis

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by maxair45

Would it be heavier than a rustler?

I don't know how it compares in weight to the rusty, but the crt.5 is 4wd and has 3 diffs. That makes a lot more drag than a rusty and thus takes a lot more power to get it moving.

[maxair45]

Any suggestion on making it lighter?

I'd say it is heavier than a rustler. Converted .5's can range between 4.5-5lbs. Also, if it is a technical track, you might want to stick to a stock chassis because the shorter wheelbase will give you a tighter turning radius.

[maxair45]

That sounds good an will save me some major money. Have you broken any parts excessively?

Originally Posted by maxair45

That sounds good an will save me some major money. Have you broken any parts excessively?

2 rear arms, wing mount, some body posts, and oh yeah 6 servo savers. I was able to mod part of an old ofna ultra buggy(1/8) servo saver that has stopped my breaking problem. I'm also running 2 servo savers(one on the servo and stock).

[maxair45]

If I throw a metal geared servo in there would it be ok to run with out a servo saver?

[Sammus]

nope, the servo saver is part of the steering bellcrank. I guess you could mod it to have no spring there or something, but I wouldn't recommend it. the new kits come with a new spring which I'm guessing is to address the servo saver thing. I run a hobbivo CS160 in mine though with the old hard spring and a alloy horn and have never had a problem with it. It's probably one of the toughest cars I've driven, but once I lost radio signal and it slammed near full speed head on into the face of a gutter.

I bent front right lower hinge pin, broke front right lower arm, and bent front right turnbuckle and motor mount(? weird - it wasnt really part of the impact. I think the L can feigao is too heavy for that little car though).

and as for how difficult it is etc, you mentioned earlier that youve been into rc for 5 years. Well the chassis isn't really customising anything, its already built for you, and is a bolt on replacement. IT's exactly the same as replacing a normal chassis - easy as. Same with changing diff oil, I run 7k in the centre which seems really good, id prefer 10k though but it's pretty good how it is. Lighter diff oil will give you better turning on your high traction carpet, but be careful the front wheels will unload easily. Even with 7k, on the road with anacondas mine will wheelstand before the diff unloads, so 7k should be more than enough weight.

[maxair45]

Ok, I'll get some lunsford hingpins,get a few sets of a arms, if the turnbuckle bends i'll bend it back with my vice, and i'll order another motor mount(can't be too safe). I'll also add to my list some 10k and some 7k diff oil to tune around with at the track. Thanks that helps alot. BL crt .5's seem common around here. I might be the first one to run a vxl motor (with MM)in it though.

[Sammus]

Nah seen the vxl motor in em a few times :P

And don't hold too much hope for the ti pins. in my experience titanium bits are great for weight reduction - lighter than steel but stronger than aluminium, but probably not as strong as steel. (depending on what grades of steel, al and ti were talking of course). Lunsford are your best bet though, let me know how they go.

[maxair45]

The package should be here on wednesday so i'll give you an update then. Thanks for your help.

[maxair45]

I got it today. Its pretty cool. I had a heck of a time trying to mesh the motor with a normal pinion. Then I found out I needed a mod 1 pinion and a guy at my lhs made an adapter o I could run a mod 1 without any major modding to my vxl motor. I like how once you undo four screws the whole center of the car(center diff, motor, top deck with radio and esc, motor mount).I think I might get another.

[Sammus]

Should get one of these with your next order :)
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...rod=RCMreducer

[hoovhartid]

anyone notice they are back in stock?!!?!