anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?

[Ryu James]

so i am told that the Castle Neu's motor leads are not actually the copper wire from the winding but just regular 10awg wire soldered to the winding leads inside the can. has anyone opened their Castle motor and taken pics of this? i just want to see how the soldering job looks and how they did it. i would have done this on my own but i sold my Castle Neu the same day i got it. can anyone help me out with a pic? thanks.

[Rnemhrd]

Not sure if this helps.http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15900

[brushlessboy16]

Official Motor Thread



I have taken mine apart- what do you need to know.

[George16]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Official Motor Thread

I have taken mine apart- what do you need to know.

He wants to know this :

Originally Posted by RyuJames

i just want to see how the soldering job looks and how they did it.

[Ryu James]

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

Not right now, i havent taken off the rear end bell....yet.. Ill see what i can do

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Not right now, i havent taken off the rear end bell....yet.. Ill see what i can do

cool. thanks. if anyone else happens to have theirs opened up please post a pic of the wiring and motor lead solder job. thanks.

[brushlessboy16]

Your allowed to shorten the leads on the cc motors (or at least i have with no side effects ) They are just 10ga wires, the same found on the MMM.

may I ask what your trying to do with the motor? :)

[Ryu James]

i am not doing anything to a cc motor but i like how the wires go directly to the esc without having to solder bullets so i want to make my Neu like that; solder some 10awg wire to the motor leads just inside the rear endbell and run the wire long enough to reach the esc. i just wanted to see how castle did it so i can get an idea and not screw up my motor.

[BrianG]

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

[suicideneil]

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good.

[slimthelineman]

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good.

this is exactly what i have decided to do after i already tried to remove the endbell on my tekno neu but its like glued with some serious shi* cuz i cant even budge the endbell after removing the screws. so basically it will be just like Slim's (looks good btw, Slim) but i am going to push the heatshrink just inside the can enough so that i can still heat it but hopefully have it look real clean. thanks guys. that really is my whole purpose in this-clean appearance. i just like the cleaner look of the castle motor leads without the extra bullets right there. i wish Steve Neu would just run the motor leads an extra 3-4" and not add all the tin to the leads. oh well, there must be a reason to his madness and i certainly cant complain about the best motors in the biz. i just really like a clean setup and when i saw those castle motors i thought that added to the overall "neatness" of a setup. but after buying a castle neu (sold it) i like the square Tekno neus much better.

i found some amazing solder i plan to use. it is made by Mundorf. it is 10% silver, 1% gold, 2% copper, and 87% tin (rounding off decimals). can you believe that?!!! it is the best solder in the world. period. i have seen the 45% -70% silver solder for jewelry and stuff but this is actual RC/Audio solder. Novaks Racing solder is only 3% silver. and on ebay there is some stuff that claims to be the highest silver content for any solder at 5.2%. that is what i have used in the past. the gold is added to this solder to give it a somewhat low melting point still cuz with all that silver it has to get pretty hot. melting point is at 522*. not bad. i think 4-5% silver bearing solder melts at like 430*. and the jewelry stuff melts at around 1100-1500*. aint no way your melting that with your soldering iron. at least i dont think so. anyway, it will be interesting to see if this solder makes a difference at all. if anything, the joints will be super strong.

[suicideneil]

Sweet. If I may ask, why did you opt for the Neu over the CastleNeu exactly?

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Sweet. If I may ask, why did you opt for the Neu over the CastleNeu exactly?

its actually a Tekno Neu. 2 reasons. First, i love the new square can TEknos. they work perfect for my preferences - chassis mounted and a fan on top. Second, the tekno motor shaft turns very smoothly if you try to turn it with your fingers. the castle neu is not like this. it is very hard to turn. this causes more cogging at low speeds. i think it is a great motor still but i really just love the TEkno Neus.