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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Posts: 4,529
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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02.27.2009, 01:34 AM
Wow. It's been a while. Oh wait- we're in a recession and I have no liquid assets! That's why!
Anyhow, I ordered up some 12"x24"x0.08" (2mm) 7075-T6 aluminum plate a couple weeks ago. The other day I got around to cutting it up. Here's what it looks like now:
I also ordered a 12"x48"x0.025" piece of polycarbonate to make the sides and the internal support structures. It came today, so hopefully next week I will have time to cut it up a bit. I'm going for the "speed wedge" look, with a twist- I'm going to design a venturi into the top so that it will create a vacuum inside the body and (hopefully) help stick the car to the road.
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Check out my huge box!
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Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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02.27.2009, 02:06 AM
Hmm, sounds like the pike's peak racers that have the huge tunnels that produce downforce...
I found that Lola style bodies work like a charm at speed. Problem is none are made that are wide enough to work on a gtp...
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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02.27.2009, 02:11 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp
I found that Lola style bodies work like a charm at speed. Problem is none are made that are wide enough to work on a gtp...
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I like those Lola's too, for 1/10 TCs. IF they made one for 1/8 cars, it would be too high in the back for real speed runs. Too much rear downforce. That's flip territory. I suppose you could chop down the rear wedge a bit. Maybe replace it with a normal wing.
Last edited by What's_nitro?; 02.27.2009 at 02:14 AM.
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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03.05.2009, 02:39 AM
I finished outlining the body's profile on the polycarbonate. I am going to buy a thinner blade for my band saw before I even attempt to cut it out (1/2" blade on there now for cutting Al). I think a jig saw would make a really rough cut, and I don't want to crack/chip the edges either.
Here are a couple pictures of my design. The "notch" is at the front of the car. It's where the venturi will draw air in from underneath the car.
Now for the million-dollar question: Should I put a wing on the back???  It would be made from the same polycarbonate/aluminum as the body.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Twin Citys Mn
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03.05.2009, 03:51 AM
looks cool, how much will the body weigh?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semi Pro
......maybe they want to be more like novak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
I'm telling Patrick you said that!
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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03.05.2009, 11:17 PM
I don't know for sure. Maybe 1-1.5 lbs.?
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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08.21.2009, 03:00 AM
Sooo... I'm poor as s#!7 right now and as such I haven't been doing much on any of my projects. I did finally buy some parts for this car- An RC-M 8T motor mount, and the OEM 8T CD mount/brace kit. These will allow me (hopefully) to drop in the Slipperential I bought 5 months ago. I need a short dogbone for the front ( these?) since it will be FWD and I want to move everything forward. Oh and I've cut out the polycarbonate body panels. I'll get pics up later today.
Last edited by What's_nitro?; 08.21.2009 at 03:05 AM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 5,061
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks CA
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08.21.2009, 01:31 PM
Awesome, 'bout time for an update on this beast!
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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08.22.2009, 07:30 PM
Ok, I forgot to take pictures before I tore it down....  Oh- and I read that the Slipperential was a drop-in for the 8ight so that's why I bought the diff mounts. Guess what? Mine isn't! It came with 8x16x5 bearings. I need some 8x14x4 flanged bearings. ..... Mike's 8ight motor mount is frakking sweet though. I like how you can remove the motor- with the screws still in it!
So I'll get the bearings and take some pics when it's all back together.
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Fat Kid Engineering
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
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08.22.2009, 08:16 PM
Where'd all the pics go ? I've read the whole thread and it's pictureless -1 of your build ?
Sounds like a great prodject and would like to "see" more.
I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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08.22.2009, 08:20 PM
Last edited by What's_nitro?; 08.22.2009 at 08:23 PM.
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Fat Kid Engineering
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Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
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08.22.2009, 08:34 PM
You have definitely put a LOT of time,thought,theory,$$ into this speed demon.
I sincerely hope to see it work out well for you,so many variables I struggle to keep up.
I look forward to seeing more now that I'm subscribed to the thread.
Good luck.
I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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08.22.2009, 08:49 PM
Thanks Bondo!
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Fat Kid Engineering
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Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
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08.22.2009, 09:01 PM
Fly Straight and True Like a Warriors Arrow of Death, My Young Speedy Samuri......
I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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10.14.2009, 08:39 PM
So... long time no update I guess?
The speed project is postponed until the spring- it's getting chilly here now and rubber loses traction fast in the cold. I purchased a new battery tray, 164x55mm so the FP pack can lay down. It should help the CG quite a bit. Trying to decide whether to stick with the 1515-1y and MMM, or break out that LT-6s150 that I never got around to running (sorry Lutach), OR buy the Tekin RX8 2250 truggy combo. I'm actually leaning toward the Tekin 'cause I like the sensored startup soo much. The MMM has the BEST sensorless startup, but if you run very tall gearing (ie. speed runs) it still suffers a lot.
Hopefully the recent spike in the market will make people come spend their money so that I can have money to spend!
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