My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

OTHER STUFF I DID

SPEKTRUM DX3R

I modified my Spektrum DX3R radio to accept 5 rechargeable AA batteries in order to have 6+ volts.



SET UP SHEET

I made an ERBE set up sheet using Traxxas' set up sheet for the 3.3. You can download and print the jpg file below on a 8.5 X 14 sheet of paper or PM me your email addy to get the pdf file.



PARALLEL HARNESS

My parallel harness with the jumper plug, I made a finger loop on the jumper plug to make it easy to pull the plug out. It pull on the plug and not the wire.

[mistercrash]

4S1P split into 2S1P

I bought those Zippy 5000 mah 30C/40C 4S lipos because I read that they could be squeezed in the battery compartment of the ERBE. They are too big and I couldn’t stuff them in there so I decided to split them and make 4 2S1P packs. I didn’t go with the thin shrink that is commonly used, it is very thin at 0.15 mm. I went to my electronics supply store and bought some heavy duty heat shrink which is more like a hard rubber and is 1 mm thick. Those packs are almost like hard case packs. I scanned and modified the Zippy stickers a bit then printed them on a regular piece of paper and stuck them to the packs using transparent tape to try to make them look factory. I am pleased with the results. The packs weight 280 grams each.

[mistercrash]

DUBRO PROP BALANCER TO BALANCE MONSTER TRUCK WHEELS AND TIRES

I used the original base as a template to make the holes in a 150 mm X 80 mm plate of aluminum. The two pairs of holes are spread apart 120 mm.



This is the rod that goes through the wheel. It comes with two coned shaped pieces. I added an old Maximizer 17 mm hex, a tube of plastic as a spacer and a collar with a set screw.



And this is a sequence of pics on how I assemble a wheel on the shaft in case you haven't figured it out by the pics above already.



LIPO BOX

I read that a .50 caliber AMO can from the army surplus is just right to store lipos. It’s water proof and would contain any fire that could start inside. I will probably get one in the future but until then, I have been using this little metal tool box. In case of fire inside, flames could escape from four tiny holes at the bottom corners but it’s way better than a cardboard box. I always keep it on the garage cement floor.

[mistercrash]

Testing this slipper clutch is boring, just running back and forth doing hard starts to make the slipper slip gets old very fast. So I decided to bore you with a video of part of a boring testing session. I don't like to be bored alone. At first, the slipper is too tight, even the CD doesn't prevent the truck from wheelying. After adjusting the slipper twice, I get it to slip a lot to test it's durability. Near the end of the video, you can hear it starts slipping quite a bit. But I didn't tighten it after I stopped filming, I just finished the packs doing my race simulation and surprisingly, despite the fact that the slipper was slipping a lot at the end of the hard starts part, the truck ran very well and the slipping was less noticeable during the rest of the packs. It's probably because it got to be very hot during the abuse of the repeated hard starts and got to cool down during running normally. One thing I found weird is about three quarters into the video, you can hear that slipper slipping and all of a sudden, I pop a wheely and then, it starts slipping again. Things that make you go ''hmmmm'' I was running my new 2S packs I made earlier by the way.

[mistercrash]

RACER’S EDGE STEERING SERVO HORN

I am trying out this clamp type servo horn. I like the fact that it clamps on the servo’s splines but I thought it was too short for the kind of steering I like on my ERBE so I made a small piece out of aluminum to extend the horn’s throw.

[shizzon]

looks very nice, i recently made a carbon fiber motor mount/brace for my E-revo, hopefully i wont have any temp issues like you did.

[nitrostarter]

That servo arm is really nice! I have one as well. Nice secure servo mounting.

[lincpimp]

This is by far the best selection of revo info I have seen, ever... This needs to be made into a sticky and closed. Great job MC and all the better considering you are Canadian! (sorry, had to make a Canada joke, you hoser, eh?!?!?!)

I will be applying alot of this to the slayer when I set it up again. All great info.

[TexasSP]

I could write something long and nice but it's easier to just say DITTO to linc's post, Canadian jokes included!

Very impressive write up.

[shaunjohnson]

i hate you
you beat me to exactly what i was gonna do!!!!

ive got a 2.5 convert and i am slowly doing ALL of these mods

but i really like your build...will be a valuable resorce in years to come

[BL_RV0]

Very nice write up. Where do you live in Canada?

[mistercrash]

Thank you eh! Very nice of you eh! I live in Guelph, Ontario eh! And please don't close the thread eh! Might have some more stuff to ad if I think of something eh!
Like those companies I have been harassing to make an aluminum chassis for the ERevo. I even sent them a crude drawing of what I think would work great. Basically a slightly modified 3.3 chassis with wings for battery boxes much like the ones Monster Mike sells.

[BL_RV0]

Canada's pretty nice, eh? I lived on take Temagami (aboot 5 hoours north of Toronto, eh?)

[mistercrash]

This weekend was the first big race for the ERBE. The Hardcore Racers RC Club Spring Showdown Trophy Race. As this was a one day event, the number of entries in Truggies, Buggies and MTs were limited to 98. I could only manage to get a third place, my set up is all wrong and the truck was bouncy, squirely and bottoming out in some places. Other than a battery lead coming loose in the third qualifier, nothing broke on the truck, everything (except my set up) worked flawlessly. I am very pleased.

[mistercrash]

The diffs move in a Revo. They move inside the bulkheads. Just look at the abrasion marks on your diff cases and inside the bulkheads when you take them apart. Some people tried to stuff silicon in there to hold the diffs in place, some put foam underneath the chassis to press down on the diff. I'm sure someone will chime in with yet another Band Aid fix for this little problem. I want a permanent fix. I am going to try out these diff blocks that key into the bulkheads and sandwich the diffs in place holding them tight preventing movement up and down, left and right. I made them for my LST2 diffs but I'm sure they would not work for the stock diffs.

The front blocks



And the rear blocks