My e-revo brushless edition build

[revo guy]

So then for the 2.6mm would a 7/64 (2.78mm) work for the output shaft?

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by revo guy

So then for the 2.6mm would a 7/64 (2.78mm) work for the output shaft?

The real measurement of the hole for the spider gear pin in the shaft is 2.5 mm. I went with 2.6 because it gives me a little more play just in case the hole I made is off by a thousandth or two. If you have a way of making an absolute centered hole in the shaft you can use a 2.5 mm bit. If you're like me and your work is ''precise enough'' then I suggest a 2.6 mm. 7/64th or 2.78 mm is too big IMO, the pin will wobble in the shaft too much.

[mistercrash]

It took me more than 4 hours total but I finally did it. My ERBE is now running with 5.5 mm bullet connectors.

ESC bullets


Ready to go with a couple 2S packs plugged in


The parallel harness


Now I don't know what to do next on this ERBE. I think I covered just about everything and addressed a lot of issues. The thing is running so well now when I race or bash it. I'm out of ideas, I need to get a new RC. How about a Losi 8ight E 2.0 buggy.

If your just bored you could put some heat shrink tubing on the female side of the motor connectors on the esc. Anything metallic gets up in there and hits two of those motor connectors and poof! goes the esc. I think that could be one of the reasons some MMM's mysteriously die.

[mistercrash]

Thanks for the project that will occupy 10 minutes of my time But seriously, really? I never thought about those female connectors sticking out of the ESC. Can they really be shorted out when batteries are plugged in? If yes then I will certainly put heat shrink on them.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

Can they really be shorted out when batteries are plugged in? If yes then I will certainly put heat shrink on them.

I would assume that would short it out, I'm not gonna test it on mine though

[mistercrash]

I don't think they can be shorted by a piece of metal, I mean if they could, the ESC would have been done differently. The ESC motor bullets would be covered if they could be shorted. Maybe a tecky can clarify this? please.... pretty please...

Im not sure on the motor wires but that is why that got rid of them on the battery side. The female ends were bending in and touching the heatsink and shorting it out. Thats why the went to the battery wires straight to the board.

Id go with the Losi buggy next. I love mine handles so great.

[mistercrash]

Yes that Losi buggy is very tempting. Well even if there's no confirmation on the possible shorting of the motor leads, I had to open the ESC to clean the inside and check the fan anyway so I went ahead and shrinked them. I also have a used MMM system as a spare so I wanted to see how difficult it was to open the motor to check the bearings. I had a little trouble getting the end caps off the motor and they got tiny marks on they from the process but I got them off. And yes, one of the bearings needs to be changed. I took the opportunity to change something to the front end cap, I drilled and tapped the mounting holes to 4X0.7 mm threads. Then I drilled the holes of a spare motor mount to 4 mm and counter sunk them to accept M4X10 mm flat head screws. I had that motor come loose on me once but I was lucky as no damage was caused but it could have been worse. M4 screws will hold the motor a lot more securely to the motor mount IMO. I saw someone else do this and I thought I'd give it a try.

I'll ad pics later today.

[mistercrash]

Here's the pics, first the shrink on the motor tabs. I know they're blue, they match the boots on the shafts.



And the M4 screws for the motor to attach it to the motor mount.

[mistercrash]

A neat little thing I did to help keep the ball ends of the turnbuckles and pushrods from popping off the steel ball. I used two pieces of fuel tubing of the right length on the turnbuckles and o rings of the right size for the pushrods. It really helps.

[rawfuls]

Wow, I would've never thought of that! I'm having major ball popping off issues with this on my ESavage, I'll try this!
Thanks.

[ticklechicken]

Just when I thought you had done it all, here comes another great idea. Please keep them coming.

[Chadworkz]

mistercrash is the man! He has more tips, tricks, mods and stuff than anyone I know, and he does everything so well!

[jpoprock]

Originally Posted by shaunjohnson

been there done that, did your threaded insert mod and i'll never go back
one of the best mods for revo ever those threaded inserts!!

Hey Shaun/MistaCrash...

I've looked thru this thread (which is a LOT of lookin!), and I can't seem to find this mod that you're talking about. I was hoping you could direct me to the post that talks about it?

I like some of the ideas shown on how to strengthen up the rear wing area. I like the one where the shafts mount to the back of the truck, then up to the wing itself. I'm going to get a hold of some P2 rods with hopes to brace my wing up.

Question though.. will I have to fab up a mount for it on the shock mount? My Tekin stabilizer kit has a small screw in the center, but I'm not sure it's adequate to hold. I have some CF that I can cut up and make a mount. I just don't remember if I have a countersink bit. I think I do.

Also, has it been decided as to which "dirt flap" is the best design? Is it the one where you used Gorilla tape, or is it the one where you cut a single piece of rubber? I'm sure both are great!

So, do I still sound mad? LOL! I hope not. I never intend to come off that way ever! And if I do choose to be mad, you'll know it.