Where does it work....

[wallot]

BCE MBX5T chassis - had to slightly dremel the spur gear hole, and the nut on the slipperential collar . both by about 0.5mm. 1 minute with dremel.

why the diff has those pesky o-rings inside like mugen diffs do? Most people dont use them anyway :)

[JERRY2KONE]

I hope you are still planning to make more mounts for the 3906 as well. I need a few of them for my projects. One for the new Maxxler chassis that Matt is producing, one for my extended FLM Maxx, and one for the extended UE Lightning SuperMaxx that I have setup for high speed testing.

[wallot]

what diff oil do you use in truggies for racing? in nitro i used 10k, in my center diff max I had 20k so I put about 17k in mugen and it seem too much. i am bit afraid to go down to 10k.

[Steeni]

Ok, installed it in my Losi 8eight-T and it's almost a drop in.
Only thing that has to be taken care of, at least if you're using Mike's motormount is the fact that the spurgear will be touching the motormount.
3X 0.3mm shimms on the side of the spurgear will solve that problem.

@Mike: My packaging was not damaged in anyway but the 3rd pressure plate was missing. If I understand your instructions right you need 1 pressure plate under the thrustbearing, 1 above, and 1 on the slipper side which need to be roughened a bit to allow for more grip. Used one from my stock but I was wondering if this happened to more packages...

Anyway, it works now and I promptly killed my Castle MMM again....grrr

[RC-Monster Mike]

Sorry about the missing pressure plate, Steeni. I am glad you had something similar layong around. The slipper side must be scuffed up a bit and also must be one that is included(they have cutouts that engage the slipper side endcap to prevent it from spinning). The 2 plates on either side of the thrust bearing are to provide a surface for the bearings - any washer in this size is fine here. :)

[Steeni]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Sorry about the missing pressure plate, Steeni. I am glad you had something similar layong around. The slipper side must be scuffed up a bit and also must be one that is included(they have cutouts that engage the slipper side endcap to prevent it from spinning). The 2 plates on either side of the thrust bearing are to provide a surface for the bearings - any washer in this size is fine here. :)

Np, as I said it's working now.
But I would say that the scuffing of the pressureplate on the slipperside is a must, the slipperential did overheat badly after roughly 3 minutes on the track before I actually read the instructions again and saw the remark about the scuffing.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Yep - the pressure plate is pretty slippery before the scuff procedure. When properly assembled, it works very well and has good adjustemnt resolution. :)

[Dafni]

BTW, anybody seen the slipperential on rccaraction.com?

It's even in the forum under the "hot news"!

Well done, Mike, congratulations. It came a long way, I remember when we first statred to talk about a thing like this, must be a good 4 or 5 years ago now...

Daf

Has anyone used it on a Caster F8T?

[georgec]

Has anyone here tried the slipper on a D8? If so what did it take to do so? Pics would be nice

Originally Posted by adrictan

Has anyone used it on a Caster F8T?

Mike?

[RC-Monster Mike]

It fits the Caster truggy - I will let people know what is needed to install it into the D8T when I return from IHobby next week.

[zegato]

just an example of shimming needed for an RC8b with RC-M conversion kit.

[georgec]

Could someone please give me the Diameter of the adjusting ring and the distance from outside to outside of the bearings? With this info I could determine whether or not it will work in my application!
Thanks in advance.

[RC-Monster Mike]

32.75mm from outside to outside of 8x16 bearings. About 41mm OD on the adjusting ring, including the slight protrusion of the adjustment screw. :)