My e-revo brushless edition build

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Semi Pro

im just going to have to keep running my vantage/tekno set for next year

I love my Vantage chassis, RC-Monster motor-mount, and custom carbon-fiber battery tray (and other parts)!

[mistercrash]

Not much to report, just that I replaced the stock screws that came with my Kershaw chassis. There are six screws that hold the top chassis plate, the two chassis towers and the bottom chassis plate together. The stock screws are not the best and they have a phillips drive which I didn't like. And they were too short as they only caught the lock nut by a few threads, not even reaching the nylon insert of the lock nut. I needed flathead screws that are 55 mm long with a hex drive. I didn't find any. The only ones I found were 70 mm long so I just made more threads on them and cut them to the right length.
On the left is the stock screw (the tip is stripped already)
In the middle is the 70 mm screw
On the right is the modified screw with new threads and cut to 55 mm long.



Now I can really put some torque on those screws and have the chassis parts sandwiched tightly against each other.

[Novarider]

How do you think the KD chassis would hold up the way it comes? I mostly jump and do tricks like backflips and frontflips while in the air. Do you think the chasers would hold up to jumping about 12-15 feet in the air? I would like a stronger chassis mine is cracked at the rear bolt holes where the wing attaches

[mistercrash]

The way it comes from Kershaw Design? I don't really know actually I didn't run it for very long like that because of the two chassis braces (I called them towers earlier). I just thought that they were much too flexible and didn't give much structural support to the chassis. They are so flexible that if you tighten the six screws and nuts too much, they squish and make the top plate arc down. (or up?)

Look here

I bought this chassis after months of thinking about it. I was curious. It is a simple design so I thought if there are flaws then I can fix it easily. So I just went for it and bought it. With some work, this chassis turned out to be a really really good one. Really tough for bashers and very stiff which racers will appreciate. But it did need some work. It doesn't look as good and sweet as the Gorilla chassis but right now it's the only option.

Looking back on it, I'm glad I have the chassis but I could've made this chassis myself for a fraction of the price. It is really simple to make, only 4 major parts made out of flat stock. The top plate has 2 bends in it.
There's one word that pops back in my head when someone asks me what are my final thoughts on this chassis, no matter how good it is right now on my ERBE. ''overpriced''.

It's your call, $30 for a stock one that flexes too much or $180 for one that needs some work on your part to make it bullet proof.

[mistercrash]

The ESC wire coming out from the back was fine on the stock ERBE chassis with the receiver box on the other side of the motor but now my box is in the front on the same side of the chassis as the ESC so I re routed the wire so it comes out the front of the ESC to go to the receiver box. It just looks a bit cleaner that way. The excess on/off switch wire is placed in a piece of heat shrink and tucked away.



When I finally get my CF sheet to make a new bottom plate, the front battery strap will be placed 10 mm more to the front so the total space I will have for batteries will be 175 mm long by 52 mm wide by 43 mm high.

[mistercrash]

I'm back with graphs again. I analyzed the 4 Turnigy 4500 mah 6.6 volt LiFePO4 batteries I got and here is an overlay of the 4 results. I bought the packs in pairs and named the first pair A1 and A2. The second pair B1 and B2. From the results, I matched A1 with B1 and A2 with B2.



LiFePO4 A1 (in black):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.92 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 9 seconds
Tested capacity: 4520 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in red):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.85 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 20 seconds
Tested capacity: 4384 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in green):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.82 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 15 seconds
Tested capacity: 4537 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in blue):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.77 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 3 seconds
Tested capacity: 4337 mah

[mistercrash]

Remember GERBE? Gabriel's ERBE? It is pretty much done right now. I'm at the last stage of the build. It is ready to run right now with a Futaba 2PL 2.4GHz FHSS Radio. I am waiting on the body that will need to be painted and I need to get some sticky vynil sheets to print the decals for the wheels. I built this GERBE with all the same little mods and subtleties that my own ERBE has. That kid is spoiled rotten

[suicideneil]

Gotta treat em well whilst they're young, that way they will take care of you when you get old & decrepit...

[mistercrash]

The carbon fiber plate came in yesterday morning so I started working on duplicating the Kershaw Design bottom chassis plate. I finished this morning and here's the result. I made some changes from the Kershaw bottom plate. A bit more material here and there especially where holes are drilled and counter sunk for screws, I moved the front battery strap 8 mm forward to allow for slightly longer batteries and I didn't make holes for Nimh cells. Even though it has a whole lot more material and is thicker than the stock aluminum plate (3 mm versus 2.2 mm), it is only 10 grams heavier. Something I never mentioned about the placement of the batteries, the stock ERBE chassis has the bottom of the battery around 32 mm below the top surface of the chassis with them tilting up a bit towards the battery doors. The Kershaw chassis places the batteries 45 mm below the top surface of the chassis and they lye flat. That is a very big change in the center of gravity right there.

[feistyacorn]

Wow mistercrash!! The quality of your work is awesome! How are you making the parts? CNC or all by hand?

[mistercrash]

Solid carbide bits in a router mounted of a router table, belt/disk sander, drill press are the biggest tools I have. The rest is done by hand with files and sand paper.

[Novarider]

Seriously you could make some chassis and sell them on the side for some extra cash or just because you enjoy making them. I know I would love a Mistercrash chassis

[sjcrss]

I would be interested in a Mc Chassis myself, if you decide to make a few of them...let me know....

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by Novarider

Seriously you could make some chassis and sell them on the side for some extra cash or just because you enjoy making them. I know I would love a Mistercrash chassis

Originally Posted by sjcrss

I would be interested in a Mc Chassis myself, if you decide to make a few of them...let me know....

OUT OF THE QUESTION!

Let's get one thing straight, this is a Kershaw Design chassis. Not a MC chassis. No matter what I did to it to make it better for my truck, it is still a Kershaw chassis. I didn't think of anything new, I took Dan's idea and design and made it better.... Well I think I did anyway. But the design and ideas that make this chassis have not changed, it is Dan's design and ideas, not mine.

If I put together the time I spent just making the chassis braces and bottom plate, I would say I spent a full working day on them. And I didn't make the top plate which would be the longest and hardest to fabricate. This would take a lot of time not to mention the cost of the materials needed. In order to sell a chassis at a reasonable price that no one would bitch about, I would be left with a net profit of maybe $25/$30 for a full days work. I ask you, would you be willing to work for $30 a day? Nah! Not gonna happen sorry.

I said before that the chassis was overpriced, well after doing what I did and thinking about how much time and money was involved, I think that Dan is reasonable about the price. And I seriously think he does it for a very small profit for himself. I like his design, it's simple, elegant and it works. But I still think that the chassis braces should be stronger. And that he should buy a new counter sinking bit.

[mistercrash]

A little 5S fun in the snow.

- Bashing through the snow
- With a brushless ERevo

I ran until my fingers couldn't take the cold anymore. And Traxxas plastic doesn't like the cold. I cracked a front bulkhead. It's fun to bash in the snow but it freaked me out to see the truck when I took the body off. Especially since I didn't do anything to water proof. I should at least use some love balloons over the lipos.