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  (#421)
mistercrash
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12.28.2009, 10:06 AM

No it doesn't say anything about the counter sinks but Dan mentions tighter tolerances.


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  (#422)
mistercrash
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12.31.2009, 02:21 PM

Snow testing continues today. I wrapped the lipos in 12'' party balloons and zip tied the opening around the wires making sure to stuff some petroleum gelly in there first. Then after I recharged the packs I smeared some petroleum gelly on the balancing tabs. No shower cap this time as I wanted to test the polyurethane coating I put on the ESC circuit boards and the servo casing.



yesterday night I sprayed the whole truck with a generous coat of silicon lube spray and let dry over night. This is just an attempt to protect the metal parts and screws from rusting too much. I ran the truck in the woods in 1 to 2 inches of snow, jumped some small snow banks, went through deep slushy puddles, the works. This is how it looked when the LVC kicked in.



Plastic doesn't like the cold. But this is the only damage after the test. I broke one of my old MT rims with Bowties mounted to them.



The balloons worked very well in keeping the lipos dry. One had a little rip probably due to the lipo moving and rubbing on the battery strap. But since the balloon fit very tight on the lipo, no water got in the small opening. maybe it would be better to have two balloons over each lipo. Or have battery straps that are less abrasive.
The ESC and servo performed flawlessly, even though there was a lot of packed snow, slush and water around them. After I blew the moisture off with compressed air, everything still worked perfectly, the ESC didn't seem to mind having some moisture left inside it and the servo did not behave erratically like it once did before. I'm glad it worked because I was quite nervous to head out in the snow again with nothing over the ESC, I was afraid to fry something. The temps were way down with all the liquid cooling provided by the snow. Barely warm to the touch.


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Last edited by mistercrash; 12.31.2009 at 02:23 PM.
   
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  (#423)
Chadworkz
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12.31.2009, 05:11 PM

Excellent!


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  (#424)
mistercrash
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01.01.2010, 05:44 PM

Another fun testing of the water proofness of my ERBE. I say water proof now even though I said it was water resistant before because I really think that it is actually water proof. 2'' of fluffy powdery snow fell and after I wrapped my lipos with two layers of party balloons, I went out and had some fun. When I brought the truck back in, the body was packed full of snow underneath. I couldn't see the ESC or lipos, only a portion of the motor but nothing was affected by all that snow and water. Not the ESC, the servo or lipos. When I carefully took off the balloons, there was no trace of any moisture on the lipos. They were bone dry.
This Tremclad clear coat stuff I put on the MMM's circuit boards and the servo really seems to work very well. I put three thick coats and will probably put a couple more as added protection. I will also do my son's GERBE in the same manner. If anyone wants to try this stuff, here's a couple pics of the can.



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Last edited by mistercrash; 01.01.2010 at 05:52 PM.
   
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  (#425)
phatmonk
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01.02.2010, 10:41 AM

Mistercrash why are your rear driveshafts in backwards?Flex-joint at the top instead of the flex-joint closer to the tire side.


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SC RC8BE MMP Neu Tekno 1512/2D
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  (#426)
sjcrss
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01.02.2010, 11:11 AM

I think he took the shafts apart, and flipped the shaft around, so the boot was toward the diffs, this sorta protects the sliding point, I believe......I'm actually considering doing this, once my new shafts come in the mail....


Bl E-REVO
Quark 125b
Castle Creations-Neu 2200kv motor
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  (#427)
mistercrash
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01.02.2010, 11:43 AM

I started doing this before I made mud flaps. A trick I learned from ''WUDS'' on Revo-World. When the rubber boots are on the inside close to the bulkheads, there's less debris hitting them coming from the front tires. Especially running with a CD when the tranny unloads to the front wheels, they kick up dirt and rocks and throw them at the back of the truck at very high speeds. If you run mud flaps then it's not really necessary but I do it anyway because I'm just me


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  (#428)
sjcrss
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01.02.2010, 12:05 PM

I think I need to make me some mud flaps... also MC, on the mount I'm fitting to my Erevo, there has been a slight issue with the way I mounted it, check the thread...just a FYI for you


Bl E-REVO
Quark 125b
Castle Creations-Neu 2200kv motor
((2s2p)(4s)
7800mah 7.4v Lipo Pack
E-Revo 1/8 scale Hyper 7 CD
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...1&goto=newpost
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  (#429)
phatmonk
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01.02.2010, 12:39 PM

So it would switch the leverage to the Diff side of the drivetrain putting more presure on the wheel bearings.I have RPM True track with larger bearings on the rear so I will try this out today.Besides it -12 deg F outside and I am board.


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  (#430)
sjcrss
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01.02.2010, 02:37 PM

MC, I'm going to be picking up a set of these from hobbyking... http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10285, and my question for you is, what kind of tap plug is on the end, is it like the hyperion, how and what do you use to balance you lipo's, I'm going to be using a lba10, that has hyperion plugs for the taps.... any suggestions.
Thanks


Bl E-REVO
Quark 125b
Castle Creations-Neu 2200kv motor
((2s2p)(4s)
7800mah 7.4v Lipo Pack
E-Revo 1/8 scale Hyper 7 CD
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...1&goto=newpost
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  (#431)
_paralyzed_
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01.02.2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by phatmonk View Post
So it would switch the leverage to the Diff side of the drivetrain putting more presure on the wheel bearings.I have RPM True track with larger bearings on the rear so I will try this out today.Besides it -12 deg F outside and I am board.
yeah, shes a cold one today


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  (#432)
shaunjohnson
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01.02.2010, 04:37 PM



E-revo 3.3 conversion, 249kv outrunner, 6s, MMM
the porthole from the noob world an here has been opened!! that's how i got in.
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  (#433)
mistercrash
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01.03.2010, 10:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjcrss View Post
MC, I'm going to be picking up a set of these from hobbyking... http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10285, and my question for you is, what kind of tap plug is on the end, is it like the hyperion, how and what do you use to balance you lipo's, I'm going to be using a lba10, that has hyperion plugs for the taps.... any suggestions.
Thanks
The description says JST-XH balance tabs. I have no idea what Hyperion plugs look like, to tell you the truth, I don't know what any plug looks like, I always have to ask someone I charge and balance my lipos with a CellPro 10S. What's a lba10? No suggestions


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  (#434)
sjcrss
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01.03.2010, 10:59 AM

MC, I figured it out, and thanks for the reply, I learned that a hyperion/polyquest plugs are the same.... so by looking on the hobbyking site, I found a ext. that has the JST-XH tabs on one end and the hyperion/polyquest on the other end, so they will just plug right into my existing tap plugs on my balancer...... oh, here is a lba10, hooked up to my mrc 989 charger as well....


Bl E-REVO
Quark 125b
Castle Creations-Neu 2200kv motor
((2s2p)(4s)
7800mah 7.4v Lipo Pack
E-Revo 1/8 scale Hyper 7 CD
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...1&goto=newpost
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  (#435)
mistercrash
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01.03.2010, 11:56 AM

Hyperion and Polyquest are the same.... Ok MC try to remember this time I'll probably forget in five minutes. Whadawe talkin' 'bout?


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