How does the one with the 1/8 shocks handle next to the one with the stock shocks? I was thinking about going with the 1/8 shocks on mine so Id really like tou hear what you think.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
How does the one with the 1/8 shocks handle next to the one with the stock shocks? I was thinking about going with the 1/8 shocks on mine so Id really like tou hear what you think.
Jhautz, the 1/8 shocks feel great. It's an incremental thing, the stock Jammin shocks work fine, going to the Jammin rears all the way around was a little better and going 1/8 was better yet. Not a huge difference, but to me it's worth it. I am not an elite driver and make mistakes so I need all the help I can get. The point of going biggger is that you can lower the ride height (especially critical if you go with bigger Slash size wheels) and gain back the suspension travel by increasing the up travel slightly. Going to the 1/8's adds the following, more oil volume for consistancy and stronger (shafts).
I'm thinking about 1/8th shocks my self, but more in a way of ofna 1/8th front buggy shocks. Basically the ones I use on my g-maxx but shorter (~100mm).
Other than that, got my first delivery today: colours, masking tape, ball bearings for the steering and a few other parts.
With any luck you guys have a chance to see a screwed up paintjob on a SCRT10 shell next weekend
One more thing regarding the shocks. The stock Jammin shocks are the same ones used on the 1/12 scale CRT.5 which are based off of 1/10 scale truck shocks. The Jammin SCRT10 is much heavier than a CRT.5 and most 1/10 2wd trucks. Look at the current SC wheels/tires (Slash sized), they are as big as 1/8 scale buggy wheels and that's a lot of mass for the stock shocks to control. So in my opinion the SCRT10 benefits from larger shocks. Just a few years ago 1/8 buggies ran 13, 14 and 15mm shocks with 3mm shafts now they are running 16, 17, 18mm and larger shocks with 3.5-4mm shafts.
Been almost four months since I updated this post. Lots of upgrades and fine tuning since then. Current setup, MMP, Novak HV 4.5, Elite shock towers, Elite low CoG motor mount, 1/8 Z-car shocks, STRC servo saver, Ofna PBS suspension, T-Bone front bumper.
The main weakness on the SCRT10 is the front bumper. It has a tendancy to break the upper mount or the lower part will pull out from the chassis. I am running a T-Bone modded bumper. It mounts under the chassis (which is either good as it acts as a front skid, or bad, because it reduces ground clearence). It has been holding up well so far.
I have replaced the stock aluminum chassis with a SNR carbon Fiber one. I also removed the larger center diff top plate with a smaller CF plate. I added the PBS front suspension and moved all the electronics to the chassis to lower the CoG. I lost almost a pound from what I was originally running.
I made a small bracket to help hold the rx in place. The rx is mounted with d-tape but since it was so close to the spur/driveshaft I didn't want to chance it coming loose and getting sucked into the gears, so I made a bracket that mounts to the steering servo mount and clamps down on the rx. I also made a bracket that helps support the motor wires (keep flexing to a minimum) and keeps them from getting tangled in the driveshaft. I also added velcro straps to the battery box. They are more secure and allow for taller batteries to fit.
All the electronics mounted low on the chassis.
I made a small bracket to help hold the rx down.
A wire support to keep the motor/esc wires out of the driveshaft.
Nice truck man!! I haven't been on the boards in quite a while but I picked up a Jammin in September so I had to chime in. I really like your ideas.
My beef with the stock chassis was all the extra "nitro" holes that were not used. There harmless but just annoying considering how much we spent for a roller. I need to look around and see where you bought that chassis.
Did you take the front end off of a CRT.5? I have never seen one in person.
I have been running the new Novak Ballistic 550 4.5 system with horrible luck. It's fast, smooth, and runs cool when it's not bursting into flames. I'm picking up my third system tonight after the first 2 blew up. The second one was literally in flames. I'm only running 2s and a low gear. It never reaches 100 deg. Weird?
Nice truck man!! I haven't been on the boards in quite a while but I picked up a Jammin in September so I had to chime in. I really like your ideas.
My beef with the stock chassis was all the extra "nitro" holes that were not used. There harmless but just annoying considering how much we spent for a roller. I need to look around and see where you bought that chassis.
Did you take the front end off of a CRT.5? I have never seen one in person.
I have been running the new Novak Ballistic 550 4.5 system with horrible luck. It's fast, smooth, and runs cool when it's not bursting into flames. I'm picking up my third system tonight after the first 2 blew up. The second one was literally in flames. I'm only running 2s and a low gear. It never reaches 100 deg. Weird?
Again nice truck!
Thanks, I have been running an older Novak 4.5 HV with a MMP since March with no problems at all and I have been very happy with it. I have been posting regular updates on this thread, check it out:
Hi all. I'm new to this site. Awsome trucks.
I don't know anyone that's ran a ballistic 550 motor with a novak esc. That hasn't had problems. What speed control are you using. I was using a GTB with a ballistic 550 5.5 After 3 replacements I went to a CC Mamba Max pro and the truck runs like a champ.
Last edited by bajabruiser; 12.29.2010 at 02:08 PM.
I ended up trading my Jammin for a brand new Muggy. It was an awesome truck for sure but I only wanted to bash and not race. I'll have more fun with the Muggy and a CC 1518 motor.
I did end up switching to a MMP ESC after the Novak found a new home. I had problems with the BEC output on it. My Hitec servo apparently didn't agree with the ESC unless I added an external BEC. I traded the ESC and will try my luck with a MMM now.
How much lighter is the snr cf chassis over the stock aluminum one? My truck rtr is a touch over six lbs. Just wondering how much of your pound lost was the chassis and where all the wieght came off thnx.