Anyone use Al Ball Ends?

[ZippyBasher]

http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...ffff0dd23dce61

Like this^^^

I own a maxx and for anyone who has owned one, knows how many plastic rod ends you can go through for the rear toe links. I came across these aluminum ones and though they might do well. Or might just end up snapping the toe links themselves. (which I Have done with plastic ends). Anywho, Has anyone used the types of ball ends and had good success. I dont mean on a crawler to make it look cool, but on a heavy truck that gets the crap beat out of it...? Anyone? Thanks Guys.

I have busted so many of these things… I thnk I might have come up with a simple solution. And I plant on testing it out, but was still wondering if I should give these a try as well.

I plan on getting some more toe links from Ebay and using 2 Toe Links per wheel in the rear. I havent ordered them yet so it'll be a bit before I can comment if it helps at all. But I will post a picture when I get a chance. I test fitted with 2 links per wheel yesterday with a busted rod end and from regular stance to fully compressed suspension I found no binding between the two links.

Anyway, Anyone use AL Ball Ends???

[JERRY2KONE]

Plastic anything is going to break sooner or later depending on what exactly you are doing with your Maxx truck. Most of my Maxx's are aluminum, steel, or titanium now. Using aluminum is some places can be a good thing because it is strounger then plastic for sure, but it also looks really good. using aluminum for some things just does not work because it is a soft metal which can bend and flex just like plastic can. Plus there are differnt grades of aluminum as well from cheapo Integy, to 6061 T6, and 7075 aluminum. The higher the number the stronger the material. If you have an area which is under high stress and you are breaking alot of parts in that area, then you want to go with the strongest material available for that part. The only excpetion to that rule is if you are racing and you want to keep your weight to a minimum. I build to out last anything else so most of my stuff is higher grade material.

[ZippyBasher]

Yes like any maxx owner that had purchased the RTR version would know. Sooner or later your ride just becomes more and more Al, Ti or maybe even Steel. I also want to add that I do not want to use a True-Trac because I know someone here will rec. it. I have FLM lower arms and dont want to switch.

Jerry, you make it alot more tempting to go ahead and try 'em out. LOL But I am curious as to any info on these ends or any ball ends like these, (as Jerry mentioned) They say "Heavy Duty" but if it isnt hardened or quality Al, They are worthless and will get sloppy like the plastics...

So what do you use for yours?

[JThiessen]

If it were me, I'd first look for some 1/8th scale tie rods and ball ends - I just dont know if you will find a pin size small enough.

My second choice would be the aluminum ball ends over doubling them up (but I have to say that I have yet to run any). I did just buy the extra rigid ball cups for my LST, and the hardened balls for it.

[ZippyBasher]

Hey!! That is a GREAT Idea! 1/8 truggy tie rods or something. I never even thought about that. I may have to look around for something like that. + I always like fabbing up stuff to make work on my spare time.

I will take a look at what I got around here. for my 8ight and also check online.

Still anyone with AL Ball Ends?

[Chadworkz]

Just use the UE Heavy-Duty Rod-Ends on your stock or aftermarket turnbuckles.

[ZippyBasher]

JTH
Thank You for the Idea of 1/8 ends; Good Idea!

Well for an Update, I bought:

Ball End Plastic Rear Upper Arm (OFN40065) X2 So I have some spares

Ball, 7mm: 9.5, MBX (OFN36850)

Ti Turbuckle 5mmx90mm (LNS1590) X2

Total Cost Was $26.00


My Dad has an LX-1e and the rear upper arms are 7mm ball ends with 3mm holes that are Extremely beefy. So I measured what I needed and ordered the best I could get: Ti turnbuckles.

Well they were so big that they took a bit of modding to get to fit right. I had some 3mm 7075 pieces laying around and used them to make a great little mount for them.

After a few Beers and a dremel bit or two later I think they look GREAT. I was going to take pics along the way but the Gf is gone witht the camera. I am off tomorow and will get a some pics for you all.

The Turnbuckles are beefy and SUPER Lightweight. gotta love Ti. and the BALL ENDS Are about 300% larger than the upgraded Revo ball ends. HAHA SICK! Will update you guys tomorrow with pics...





The Dual Toe Links did not bind, but dramatically changed the geometry of the rear suspension when compressed. I did not like that.

[ZippyBasher]

MMmmm Beefy...

[ZippyBasher]

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Plus there are differnt grades of aluminum as well from cheapo Integy, to 6061 T6, and 7075 aluminum. The higher the number the stronger the material.

Actually, higher number has nothing to do with strength.

2024-T351

T351 temper 2024 alloy has an ultimate tensile strength of 68 ksi (470 MPa) and yield strength of 41 kpsi (280 MPa)


6061-T6

T6 temper 6061 has an ultimate tensile strength of at least 42,000 psi (290 MPa) and yield strength of at least 35,000 psi (241 MPa). More typical values are 45,000 psi (310 MPa) and 40,000 psi (275 MPa), respectively

[Chadworkz]

That looks cool and all, but why didn't you just get Ti Toe-Links that were the right length instead of having to make a custom bracket to mount them? Lunsford makes 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, & 5mm Ti Toe-Links for the Maxx...they even make a 1/8 scale titanium turnbuckle & toe-link conversion for the Maxx, with super-beefy links and rod-ends.

[JThiessen]

Zippy - nice work! I'll have to show this to my brother in law for his maxx.

Chad - I'm guessing he just wanted to use what his LHS had in stock, or didn't know about the lundsfords. Can always be upgraded down the road, now that he knows the conifg parameters.

[Chadworkz]

That's true...it's nice when you can use stuff you already have laying around.

[ZippyBasher]

Well the Turnbuckles fit fine lengthwise in the stock location. I had originally planned/Measured the pieces to fit in that location. But found they came into contact with the Rear bulkhead where the braces are screwed into, when the suspension was fully compressed.

I could have used a spacer to clear it. But I had these scraps of AL laying around, and like making stuff like this... So I just threaded the link further down the turnbuckles... These Ends are HUGE.


I knew about the Lunsford kit. But these Ends are way bigger still... Plus this only cost me $26 bucks shipped with extra rod ends.


Oh AND BASH REPORT: Everything works very well! Ran for 2 packs and the only thing that happened is the Nut holding the ball End Came Loose. So I lock-tite and added a Second nut. Now this thing is solid... Thanks for looking/Comments