Hot bodies 1/8 diffs - Page 3 - RC-Monster Forums

cmac · 10:11 PM

Got the right gears coming (mod1.0....thanks Neil). Mike is also sending me the right length upper bracket, and I also waiting on a few more major parts that should be shipping today or tomorrow. I have RPM shock towers and a-arms that I was going to use, but I am now going to go with another option.

cmac · 07.07.2011, 07:11 PM

a few more pics

cmac · 10:06 PM

Does anyone know where I can get a pair of Gorilla maxx straps? Would the Gorilla Maxx carbon fiber brace work (G2-X brace)? I know my chances of getting either is pretty slim but if I came across the carbon fiber brace I would like to know if they would work.

suicideneil · 07.09.2011, 08:48 AM

I think the CF straps are designed to fit a very specific length of battery tray since they attach on top of a post either end & are secured with a body clip- chances of the FLM chassis having the same holes in exactly the right places is remote.

As for the velcro straps, they were nothing but overpriced regular straps with the GorillaMaxx logo silk-screened onto them- paying $20 for a couple $2 straps is crazy ( probably why I have 4 on my GMaxx

). A much cheaper and stronger option is to make your own straps using something a bit more heavy duty, like so:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan94.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan95.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan96.jpg

Very simple concept and lets you use any regular straps- you just need 2 per battery tray, quick google for 'battery straps' turns up loads of cheap options.

cmac · 07.09.2011, 01:12 PM

Very cool idea. Thanks, I found a place in Europe that has both the Gorilla straps and the CF brace, with the exchange rate the straps and shipping worked out to about 74 dollars U.S. and the brace came out to about 110 dollars U.S. that would have been an expensive mistake.

cmac · 02:09 PM

So i received the new upper bracket for the cd mount today. I also got the 46t spur gear. I was hopping that the smaller gear would fit between the opening on the frame. No such luck. I guess I will have to do some work with the Dremel, unless there is another way. I can't be the first to try to fit a Slipperential to the extended FLM Maxx? Are there pictures of it mounted without having to hack the frame? I don't have a problem doing it, but if I have other options I will try them first.

suicideneil · 07.09.2011, 04:21 PM

The trouble is the new emaxx tranny is narrower than the old one, so the chassis rails are closer together as such- was never much of an issue on the older style FLM chassis for the 3906 tranny, but with the new chassis you don't have any option besides notching the chassis rails either for the spur to fit. On the upside, it should be very easy to do a neat job- just hacksaw or dremel the notches and then clean them up with a small flat or square file.

cmac · 07.09.2011, 05:25 PM

That's what I will do. I should have waited to do the anodizing until the end of the build. Oh well I'm learning as I go along.

cmac · 07.10.2011, 10:42 AM

Rebuilt the slipper with the 46 tooth spur, notched the chassis, and everything fit perfectly. I need to drill the holes and mount the slipper next. Then I need to figure out how long the dog bones need to be. Neil do you or anyone else know how much Mike charges to make custom dog bones?

suicideneil · 07.10.2011, 11:16 AM

Not sure how much Mike charges, you'd have to contact him directly. The only other company that used to make custom length dogbones was RCAlloys but they stopped making parts a couple years back sadly.

Usually though, guys go on a scavanger hunt to find dogbones from other vehicles that may be useful, then they work out the position of their CD or tranny based on that..

cmac · 07.10.2011, 11:39 AM

One other question. Do you or anyone else knows what type of counter sink drill bit I should use for the holes to get them flush with the plate? I don't want to mess that up and have to buy another skid plate.

suicideneil · 07.10.2011, 06:10 PM

Just a regular countersink bit with a 45* angle on the cutting head/ teeth- the important bit is not to drill to deep with it, thats how you avoid the head of the screw being too sunk too deep. I would practice on some scrap metal or plastic and then you can set a depth stop on you drill as required.

cmac · 10:12 PM

I can't find a countersink bit for my dremel. So do you think this will work?
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/BBC67
I have a countersink bit for my drill, but it won't fit in my Dremel. I also have the Dremel drill press attachment. I think I will have a better result with the Dremel/press attachment than trying to do it freehand.

suicideneil · 07.11.2011, 10:34 AM

I dont think the router bit is intended for metal really, it'll probably go blunt very quickly, if it doesnt shatter straight away. I wouldnt try doing it free-hand either, no. I would look/ ask around and see if any of your neighbours or friends / shops near by have a drill press you can borrow.

cmac · 07.12.2011, 07:54 AM

Good news, My neighbor has lent me his drill press. I should be able to work on it in the next few days. On a side note I found an interesting product. It is a Dremel chuck that has been modified to accept regular drill bits. I'm sure more than one person here might be able to use one of these.
http://www.mcpii.com/Nicknacks.html
I ordered one I will let you guys know how well it works.