max rpm for the new traxxas 1717?

[phildogg]

Was wondering if anyone knew? The castle site has the 1717 listed ad discontinued. Thanks.

[bruce750i]

The old one was listed at 45K. I don't think they made any changes to the rotor specs.

If thats right it means 7S.... you can probably swing 8s without issue though. Its rare that a motor reaches peak rpm.

[phildogg]

Originally Posted by bruce750i

The old one was listed at 45K. I don't think they made any changes to the rotor specs.

patrick had posted this in the mme thread

"We developed a whole new stator and rotor design for this car -- it uses a shorter and lighter rotor for faster spin-up, and is up to 4% more efficient than the original 1717"

I didn't know if that would make the rotor capable of more rpms or not.

[BrianG]

And Patrick did say something about tweaking it so the efficiency doesn't "brick wall", which I would assume it means it can handle a higher rpm without effficiency falling as fast. Not sure how high I'd go personally - 8s seems a bit high.

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by BrianG

And Patrick did say something about tweaking it so the efficiency doesn't "brick wall", which I would assume it means it can handle a higher rpm without effficiency falling as fast. Not sure how high I'd go personally - 8s seems a bit high.

i run the old one alot on 8s, im sure with proper care it would be fine

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by Semi Pro

i run the old one alot on 8s, im sure with proper care it would be fine

That's the key word; "proper care". It's one thing to run 8s for limited time for specific usage with careful monitoring, and another to use 8s all the time, balls to the wall, geared stupid high, running in grass on a hot day. Because I'm sure you know someone who fits into either category, and the latter will be surprised when their system fried.

Originally Posted by BrianG

That's the key word; "proper care". It's one thing to run 8s for limited time for specific usage with careful monitoring, and another to use 8s all the time, balls to the wall, geared stupid high, running in grass on a hot day. Because I'm sure you know someone who fits into either category, and the latter will be surprised when their system fried.

Well said

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by BrianG

That's the key word; "proper care". It's one thing to run 8s for limited time for specific usage with careful monitoring, and another to use 8s all the time, balls to the wall, geared stupid high, running in grass on a hot day. Because I'm sure you know someone who fits into either category, and the latter will be surprised when their system fried.

yep thats why i added that in there, i know this hobby is full of morons, but honestly i do remember a castle rep saying they had run the 1717 to 100k without failure

personally we push out castle stuff way harder than castle suggests just to have fun finding the limits of the motors, but i cant say its ever a good idea if you are the kind who brakes something and then cries about a warranty or the cost to fix it

[bruce750i]

What's better for the motor though for 8s operation?

Lower motor rpm / higher (potential) amps: Geared for top end but don't squeeze full throttle.(very often)

Or

Higher motor rpm / lower amps: Geared for grunt but it's hammered all the time(max motor rpm).

I'll protect the rotor more with the first option IMO, the esc should be thermally protected. Knowing when to drop the hammer is part of it too.

I wonder the same thing... because I'm typically recommending people go with low kv, higher volts. I like the idea of a motor thats turning slowly, and not often at 100% throttle.

Like I typically gear my erevo fairly high, but then I'm easy on the throttle. I think that keeps everything low stress. I figure its got to give me better mileage, like I'm using a taller gear for cruising about.

But if I go full throttle, with the tall gearing, it can cause a lot of stress, so it takes some active throttle management.