**My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed** - Page 43 - RC-Monster Forums

Kcaz25 · 07.03.2012, 11:50 PM

So the invoice from Castle says Mamba Monster extreme. I know its coming with the new fets but will it have the capbank, mount, and tabs and case? Or just the updated MMM? I'm so excited! It will be here Thursday. But the cap bank will not fit on my ESC shelf. lol

Kcaz25 · 07.04.2012, 01:06 PM

And will a 1717 fit Mikes mounts? What does it take?

nitrostarter · 07.04.2012, 02:26 PM

1717 uses the same mounting pattern as the 2200. It just have a larger diameter can. So if you have space underneath your motor it should work. If not you could raise the whole center diff with a spacer or similar to give you the additional clearance needed.

Kcaz25 · 07.04.2012, 05:16 PM

Great! And notice I have a spacer because I flipped my diff and everything around

Anyone recieved a mamba monster extreme recently? See two posts up.

Kcaz25 · 04:47 PM

Doing some maintenance the truck now. I've noticed some things... I'll need help. My 2200kv rotor. The rear endcap is disconnected or unglued. Is that okay? Also I may have noticed the shaft slidding on me one day when trying to pull a pinion. Is that possible will it slip rotationally now? I hope not!

Also! My diff cup will not seperate from the diff body. The spur side came apart easily. The pin is out but the shaft and cup are stuck! I need to replace the bearing.

I will also update on the new extreme MMM. It is very nice. I love the adjustable bec and the power handling. I noticed that large componate on the bottom board of the older mmms is gone. I believe it was the inductor mine cracked on my old mmm. Sorry this is from my phone.

So to recap I need help with the rotor and the Diff.

Thanks Zack

suicideneil · 10.24.2012, 10:14 AM

The rear end cap is screwed in place with 3 tiny screws ( M1.5?, small at any rate ), are they missing?

I would take out the rotor and check both bearings are good, and that the little brass spacers / shims aren't missing either. If the magnet has come loose on the shaft then you should see a 'tide mark' where it used to be further back onto the shaft as such.

I would suggest to tap out the shaft if it's stuck, just use a small 'hammer' and a flat head screwdriver or something similar- just be 100% certain there is no pin or anything holding it in ( the bearing may be a bit warped from front to back so it's mashed against the shaft ).

Kcaz25 · 10.24.2012, 01:19 PM

Hey Neil and thanks yeah I should take a picture. It's not the can endcap for the stator its those metal pieces at each end if the rotor. Rotor caps. It will come off. Here is what I am thinking. They are just there to add rotor balancing paste to. This end happily does not have any of that paste.

_paralyzed_ · 10.25.2012, 06:06 AM

Not sure I understand the diff question. Pics? Sounds like you need a BFH. (Big Fricken Hammer)

Kcaz25 · 10.29.2012, 09:57 PM

This is perhaps worse than I thought. However the magets so the rotor does seem to be keyed. I think I can tell that now. So hopefully it won't slip but may play back and forth. But should not the brass tubes keep that in check.

The BFH worked on the diff. It's good now what about this rotor?

Zack.

suicideneil · 10.30.2012, 09:09 AM

I'd suggest some green locktite to fix that back in place permanently. The little brass tubes / shims should stop the rotor moving back & forth, though even then they will still move slightly, maybe 1-2mm ( most people report the same thing when enquiring about it from what I've seen ).

Kcaz25 · 10.30.2012, 05:10 PM

Im pretty worried about this still even with green locktight. I did have an extra rotor(the orginal sale price of $25!!) But I gave it to my cousin. I may be getting that back soon!

I think I know what caused this. One day I had to use a lot of pressure to get a pinion off. I think it used to much. The pinion actually did come off but I think it weakened the grip the rotor had on the shaft so that this last time I worked the pinion off it broke the grip completely with little effort. All that to say this was probably the pinion in combination with me in regard to the fault and not Castle.

Also i am not sure in my case that the brass tubes or shims will stop the shaft because the whole shaft is 5mm and could come out through a bearing hole without taking the motor apart!!

I am working on a lot right now and will have an update soon!!
-Zack
ps thanks neil!

_paralyzed_ · 10.30.2012, 08:57 PM

Green loctite will do the trick, I guarantee it. Just move quickly, as it sets up fast, have everything ready.

Loctite auto corrects to lactate. Isn't that fun?

Kcaz25 · 10.31.2012, 09:43 PM

Kcaz25 · 11.01.2012, 10:43 AM

So the copper strip is keyed the old green glue is too alittle. Should I clean this? What should I do. I got the green locktite

Kcaz25 · 11.01.2012, 05:09 PM

I think I just nailed it!! I was so anxious to do it right! I ended up cleaning everything off the shaft! Including the copper strip. I mounted it back though of course and with that same green lock! I had to clean out that slot that the copper strip inserted into first. I did this with the point of a razor blade I then laid the razor blade flat to scrape out the old green glue in the two big slots. I covered those locations in green lock already have my pinion stop ready I grabbed the rotor and very quickly slid into until it stopped necessarily at my pinion stop. I had to make sure the strip went into the grove on the inside of the rotor aswell! done! I will test it tomorrow!