FLM Hybrid Bulks - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

RC-Monster Mike · 08.19.2006, 06:33 AM

Those look like old style cvds. 2.5 size cvds will work, but the UE cvds work best due to the length( a touch longer than the MIP/Prolines).

coolhandcountry · 08.19.2006, 08:16 AM

I measured mine out and they look about 10 or 15 mm longer than yours.

neweuser · 08.19.2006, 11:59 AM

The cvd's are not 2.5's, they are for the old style maxx. When buying from ebay, need to make sure that the 2.5's are the "2.5's". i have run into this problem before. Mainly, the seller may not know the difference. But with the bulks you have, i would just get the UE cvd's, as Mike said, they are a tad longer by few mm's. For me, the mip's came up a tad short. they went in, but were right at the end of the cups(not good). You want the cvd to sit near the middle of the cup, or a little further. If you get the UE's, you have PLENTY and won't have ANY issues with length. And, they are worth the money.

Hustler · 01:49 PM

Well, the guy is nice enough for letting me return em and refunding me my money. He said they came off a supermaxx.

Arent the UE's a lil expensive than the mip's?

Thanx a lot for the help guys.

and what abt the weight of the truck? The hybrid bulks and diff etc combined weigh a lot, as compared to the stock set up. Would I be able to run with the 3.3's after this whole thing gets done?

neweuser · 08.19.2006, 04:16 PM

No problem beating the 3.3. Remember, the truck will have a "little" weight as you add aluminum. many ways to counter this. Go to a single speed tranny, dump 4 shocks, etc. But, don't worry about the weight, because the system you drop in will carry itself nicely, and you will have no problem beating a 3.3. Nitro really isn't all THAT fast. A BL system can go much faster and has more torque as well.
And yes, ue's are a tad more spendy, but how often do you want to replace parts?

squeeforever · 08.19.2006, 05:54 PM

NewEuser, has a point. The UE are top notch. Get them and be done with it. There roughly 10 to 15 more a pair I believe. Well worth it.

Hustler · 07:25 PM

Thanx a bunch for the advice guys. UE it is then. I went to the local hobby shop and he says I cant just buy the bigger cup for the center drive shaft? What are my options? Do I have to get the whole 1/8th scale, buggy center drive shaft set or can the UE center shaft for emaxx work?

Also, I am only changing the front diff and bulks at this time coz I had already put integy bulks on stock diff in the back (for now that is). Later, do I have to have the exact same setup as far as diff and bulks go or I can have something different in the back? I know I'll prolly need the same diff set, but what are my options for bulks and diff covers?

Can you guys suggest a few diff setups?

squeeforever · 08.19.2006, 07:52 PM

Ok, you HAVE to use buggy diffs in the rear if you use it in the front...So FLM hybrids are your only choice. Also, if you don't have center CVD's already, get some dogbones from Mike with the correct cups. Just send him a E-Mail and he can take care of ya.

Hustler · 08.20.2006, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Ok, you HAVE to use buggy diffs in the rear if you use it in the front...So FLM hybrids are your only choice. Also, if you don't have center CVD's already, get some dogbones from Mike with the correct cups. Just send him a E-Mail and he can take care of ya.

Well, I am running stock rear diff, is that OK for now? I mean would it work......... or not work at all?

squeeforever · 08.20.2006, 12:43 AM

The rear would turn fast than the front....so NO it won't work. Unless you like causing more problems with things :p.

Hustler · 08.20.2006, 12:50 AM

so another $200+ for the rear..!!! Damn, I just opened up a can of worms, didnt I.

Now, I am thinking I was better of gettin a nitro 3.3. And I really hope (since now I am already in the middle of this whole thing), the final outcome is going to be a BOMB PROOF truck and fast as freakin hell. Tell me I am wrong and I'll sell everything right now and just buy a 3.3.

squeeforever · 08.20.2006, 12:55 AM

Don't bother with nitro...Trust me...If you do though, I'm selling my Revo :p. Anywho, it should only cost 75 bucks for the rear hybrid bulkless and 65 for the gears. If you get em from Mike, you can get the cups, bones, and bearings you need as well.

Hustler · 01:11 AM

so i can have the combos in the rear? coz I have the other ones in front.

I got the bearings today for like 5 bucks, I think. Already had bought the center cvd set by MIP. Can I only get the cup and use the same dog bone I already have? or should I return this set and will need a whole diff new set?

Also, why are you selling your revo? how fast does it go anyways?

squeeforever · 08.20.2006, 01:42 AM

I would say it does 45+, got a center diff, etc. Anyhow, You dont have the Combos...the Hybrids are the ones for 1/8th scale gears. You need the Hybrids front AND rear. Both with 1/8th scale gears. The MIP CVD's will work fine. Just gotta get the cups for the pinion on the Lightning diffs you bought. All you need is the cups and the rear setup just like your front. You did buy the rear Hybrid housing as well, correct?

Hustler · 02:11 AM

yes, I just checked and I got a total of 2 hybrid housings. I thought I had only got one. Now I feel a lil better coz all I would need is the diff gear and UE cvd's.
why are you sellin the revo?