Jammin Truggy

[glassdoctor]

Gotta post a pic of my truggy project. It's not done, but it's just about there.

I'll let a pic or two do most of the talking here...

Flipped the diff, Kyosho 46T plastic gear, basic motor mount plate (needs upgraded to alum or graphite), special alum angle "battery containment security and mounting brackets" with velcro pad for extra sticky :027:

[glassdoctor]

Much easier than a buggy and still plenty of room for the slightly oversize batteries I plan to stuff into it.

Regular 6 cell 4200s etc will fit great too... I just made sure it has a little extra elbow space for the 50mmx140mm lipo cells that are common in big mah packs.

I think the only custom drilling/tapping etc on the truck was for mounting the battery brackets and the little top plate above the motor.

If I keep the esc up top, I think I will try putting it behind the center diff on a similar top plate. It would probably look better and be better balanced... and closer to the batts.

[captain harlock]

Have a nice ride, doc.

[neweuser]

Very nice project! You have done a great job!

[Serum]

Are you going to use lipo's?

You need something to keep the batteries from falling out?

[glassdoctor]

Thanks...

Yeah I plan to use lipos, but any old nickel 6 cell packs will fit also. I have some loose cells I'm going to use special for the truggy.... I'm thinking 4s4p 12,000mah. :027: Or I might chicken out and go with a lighter 2p 8000mah. :002: I don't want to make it too heavy and kill handling and make things run hotter. But I want the big pack so I can make a 30 min race nonstop.

I have the other gorrilla strap somewhere :032: ... and I will have either some nerf bars on the sides like my buggy or a velcro strap of some sort to keep them from moving sideways.

I decided to make the alum braces like that so the batts can't ever get into the gears and there wasn't much chassis exposed at the rear, like to mount the gorilla straps. They should do a nice job of keeping the batts secure.

Heck I have thought of making a 1/10 buggy style battery bar across the top, with the packs boxed in on all sides. That would be cool. But I may be running packs that vary a lot in thickness.... like going from a big thick lipo pack to a 6 cell nickel pack. Velcro straps are more versatile....

[glassdoctor]

I got to run just a couple laps at the track today.... I think I will move the esc to the rear and I need to get the new motor mount done. The plastic temp. mount isn't holding the motor mesh right. It lets the motor slip away just a bit.

I seemed to run a little nose heavy, which can be addressed with some setup adjustments, but I might as well start by shifting some weight back and go from there.

My buggy has had the same tendency but I can't do much about the layout there... I need to make some setup tweaks to try to fix it. I did run some of the fastest lap times when I raced it though so it's not exactly a pos. :D

[coolhandcountry]

Cool. I glad it is work out fairly well. Little work for motor mount you be good to go.

[glassdoctor]

I need to update with some pics.... tomorrow...

I made a new motor plate (plastic not even good enough to test with... ruined a brand new spur) out of carbon fiber... 6mm.

Had to hack together a new spur gear.. using an old kyosho plastic gear and a Savage plastic gear. It worked pretty slick but I messed it up a little... explain later. Still runs fine for now.

Added some side skirts to the battery mounting things... so they are all boxed in tight. Now I need to find some different straps.

Finally I can run it without grinding gears... it's punchy as he11. I dropped in the 1512 1700kv with 12/52 gearing...

I'm getting a 1515 for it but I'm not sure it needs more than the 1512. I will know better after getting some wheel time tomorrow I hope.

[glassdoctor]

Well I didn't get to run it today cause it rained all day. But I got a couple pics of my new motor mount for the buggy.

Pics show the rear brace that simply has plastic "plugs" that fit into the holes on the endbell...
the three screws that bolt it to the center diff mount...
the plugs (bottom pic) made to fit into the holes in the front endbell...
and you can see the little slider thing that goes above the main motor plate.

The slider thing screws into one of the motor mount holes and it's to lock the gear mesh.... stops the motor from slipping down tighter against the spur when the car slams down from a big jump. It simply slides over until it's snug against the motor plate and locked in place.

This motor plate is very beefy... a sandwich of (two) 3mm graphite plates. The old mount was a single layer, and I had no troble with it either.

The Jammin truggy mount is made the same but it's a laydown style just like the plastic one in the pics above.

One more thing the truggy needs is a rear motor brace of some sort to lock it in place, although it's not critical cause it's flat on the chassis.

[sjcrss]

looking good...nice idea about locking the gear mesh so the motor doesn't move.....nice layout to...

[glassdoctor]

thanks... I guess I am spamming my own thread with pics of buggy parts... I should rename it now "buggy and truggy projects"

don't mean to confuse things...

[glassdoctor]

WOW...I just got a package today, a neu motor from Mike.... it's monday morning and he sent it saturday. How does that happen? New York to Iowa...

[sjcrss]

wow...now thats some fast shipping...i can get stuff real quick as well, since he's only 2 1/2 hours away from me..and im in the same state

[neweuser]

Lucky you! I'm in MN, and usually gets here within three days of placing the order, sometimes 4. But to me, that's fast even! but to Iowa! wow!!!