Well I got my new chassis put on and my new drive shafts, but of course it didnt take long before it broke again. At least I got about 4 batt. packs threw it this time and got to enjoy it a little. I blew out the front Diffs on the 2nd batt. pack in the sand. I drove it at night so know pics with full 4 wheel drive. It flew across the sand like it was nothing. It was way faster then when it was stock on the street. The truck put out a roost of sand over 20 feet atleast. It was a site to see. I drove it on the street on the next batt. pack and noticed only the back tires where turning. My truck doesnt do wheelies any more since the new chassis and stuff. Intstead it just roasts the tires. I think I need to raise my susp. up some, anyone have any ideas? I rather it do wheelies then skid out, there is no traction. The next day I took it on the sand for some 2 wheel drive action. 1st batt. pack blew the rear diffs in the sand.
That looks SWEEEET! I knew it was only a matter of time before the stock diffs gave the ghost. You have silly power going through that thing! For wheelies, stiffen the rear springs and raise the ride height. I doubt you will get wheelies with the paddles, though. Awesome pictures! Looks like a ton of fun!
It was fun while it lasted. It does do wheelies in the sand. Actully it does them like crazy. I think its because the paddles give me so much traction. The sprigs are pretty stiff. I have a dual rate spring (7/3lbs) and an 8lbs on each wheel. I figured, I would have to raise the ride height because of the g-maxx chassis. In the sand it doesnt turn very good. The front end seems like its glideing across. I have to slow down to nothing to be able to turn.
I meant no wheelie on pavement with the paddles. The paddle tires aren't mean't for turning! they are meant to throw a roost (looks like you have that part mastered!).
Yes they where stock. Once I put the titanium drive shafts on, the stock diffs just couldn't take the power rc-monster.com gave me! I took apart 1 of the diffs and the cup was full of chunks of metal. Hopefully the upgraded allum. diffs will hold up.
Cool truck! Most people go with the low cg chassis to keep all 4 on the floor. If you really want to set-up for wheelies try the standard length rear (longer wheelbase works against it) also try running a hump pack to the rear of the chassis (4 over 5) the straps are designed to go over 2 levels of cells (make sure to lace the strap through the chassis slot for a tight fit) ... and as said before... raise your suspension.
I little bit more mojo doesn't hurt - good luck with the diffs!
I do want the front end to stay on the ground. The problem I am haveing was mainly with traction. With the stock chassis the tires gripped and pulled the front end up. I will mess with different shock heights for the right medium. The batt. were set up for the stock chassis and I shoe goo'ed the heck out of them. I was to excited to run the truck once I put it together, I just strapped them in reel quick. I did notice that the batt. hits the stearing servo on one side.
Ahhh - i remember looking at my diffs and seeing the blistered metal pieces - imagine the amount of power you would need to do that to a full size truck??? - you wanna figure out a solution to that servo battery issue - dont wanna kill a cell - also - what kind of run time do you get while bashing with 18 cells????
Not sure on the exact time I keep forgeting to time them. It seems like a prety good amount of time. As for the servo mabeyI can just put some washers in it. Then the servo arm will be at an angle. Ill just have to try it. I found the rims on ebay. Cheapy plastic but they look nice. I think I paid like $20-25 for all four.