MM5700 in T4

Has anyone run a MM5700 in an Associated RC10T4? If so, how is it? I was told that combo is great. I currently have a Traxxas Rustler with an MM5700 and running it with a 3S lipo. My problem is I keep tearing up my trans gears or breaking one thing or another. Would the T4 hold up better?

[Sylvester]

Should be fine. I ran a RC10B4 with a mamba max 5700 and 2s2p maxamps 8000 lipos.

[crazyjr]

I have a 5700 in a T4 and its wild on 6 cell NIMH, on 3s lipo its an animal. The tranny holds up well, but like everything else, the arms are only as good as the stuff you don't hit

Okay, cool. Thanks for your replies.

I'm thinking of getting the T4 Factory Team kit. Are there any important upgrades to this kit that I should be aware of? I'd rather get the upgraded parts at the same time so I can install them in the initial build. Also, what servo would you recommend for the steering? I'm not planning on racing, just bashing with friends mostly on grass and dirt.

[glassdoctor]

I have raced my FT T4 with the MM 5700... very fast setup on good 6 cell packs.

You really don't need the FT kit but there's a couple nice things on it. The threaded shocks are the main thing, imo. The alum servo mounts and titanium buckles are nice too.

The carbon composite tends to break easier than plastic though... that's about the only drawback of the FT.

You can beef up the front end with GT2 parts if you like... but probably no need to unless you have issues with curbs, parked cars, etc.... :D

It's a nice truck....

[crazyjr]

I have the team, I didn't think i needed all the carbon and it gave me the cvd's so i can convert to the quick change setup

Unless you are racing, I'd stay away from the FT model. They do break more easily. As for the tranny, I won't say it's bullet proof, but it's pretty close. Just check and rebuild the diff on a regular basis. I used to run a MM7700 system in my T4 on 3S lipo and it was down right sick. It would eat Jato 3.3s like dessert. The 5700 on 3S is going to be similar. I just got out of it because the T4 on a whole wasn't strong enough to run the Castle system. I didn't have any trouble with the tranny, but other parts. Even hitting an expansion joint at 60+ mph can be catastrophic. The FT would be even worse.

[jnev]

The front a-arms are known to break, so if you want, you could upgrade to the RPM a-arms made for the gt2.

[glassdoctor]

Or the GT2 arms.. and steering arms/block too.

Would anyone recommend the T4 RTR? Afterall, it seems their are disavantages to getting the FT and since the RTR comes with everything and costs the same as the FT kit, maybe I should go the RTR route?

Comments?

If you haven't bought one already, you might want to just try to find a roller on ebay or something. In fact, it's too bad that I saw this thread so late. I sold my T4 roller two days ago for $50 with tons of extra parts. I just got tired of breaking it and that's what happens when you go as fast as you can with a MM system on 3S lipo.

The real downside to getting the RTR version is that you are paying for a motor, esc, and radio that you aren't going to use.

AAngel, you say you got tired of breaking the T4. What parts commonly break? Funny thing is I'm getting tired of breaking my Rusty and that's why I'm considering the T4. With the Rusty, it seems I'm tearing apart my tranny every two weeks to replace one gear or another (mostly the differential). Everything else seems to hold up fine unless I crash into something, but that's another story.

I was under the impression that the T4 is much more durable than the Rusty, as you said yourself that the tranny is almost bullet proof, but what and how were the other parts breaking on your T4? I mostly bash on wide open grassy fields with only moderate jumps here and there so I almost never crash into anything. In fact, I've only had two incidents of crashing damage so that's really not an issue I worry about where I bash.

[glassdoctor]

Sounds like you need to get some alum tranny gears and you will be set....

Originally Posted by glassdoctor

Sounds like you need to get some alum tranny gears and you will be set....

Well, there is a steel/aluminum differential gear, hardened steel idler and aluminum transmission case available for my truck here in the RC Monster store, but they cost a fortune. I have, however, considered getting them on a few occasions. My only worry is that they don't hold up to their hype. It would be a shame to spend $150 plus on them and have them still fail.

Has anyone had any experience running them in a Rusty or Pede? Will they make the trans practically bulletproof?

[crazyjr]

I had an RTR before the team and it was just as capable of handling the power, I ran different combo's through it and never rebuilt the diff, this included a 5800ss novak and a 5700 mamba max