MY turn to Ask the QUESTIONS - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

Mr.lst · 03.25.2007, 09:51 AM

maybe a mini lst if you keep it stock they run great and for about 200 and they are alot of fun but if you start to upgrade it be prepared to hold on to your wallet.

BP-Revo · 03.25.2007, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

You came to the wrong place with that argument..

Most accurate post if I ever saw one. :027:

Conversions is like 99.9999999999999% of what this forums about. I'm pretty sure more people have converted Revo's and LST's and stuff than an actual electric trucks.

JAM · 03.25.2007, 08:37 PM

GUYS GUYS........don't get me wrong I live to convert.......heck three of my planes are converted slimmer kits...........I just don't want to stick a ton into two cars........I do like the Associated T4 but yeah to keep cost down I think the stampede/rustler angle is the way to go..............plus I have two outlets in town for parts for them..........Now I'll do mine with BL but what do you think the step son will say when I smoke the crap out of his brushed set-up..............HAHA.

glassdoctor · 03.25.2007, 09:04 PM

Well.. the Pede/Rusty are super cheap and you got the hookup of batts... so it wouldn't be too bad with MM systems.

That's about $360 per truck plus your lipo packs and whatever upgrades you want... tires, etc... and a few bucks for a couple steel idler gears.

And you can sell off the stock electrics that come in the box...

BrianG · 03.25.2007, 09:19 PM

I don't know about the rest of you, but it seems the electric-specific vehicles don't seem as solid or built as sturdily as the Nitro counterparts. My son has a Pede and it works well and all, but for a speedy and/or powerful R/C, a Nitro roller conversion seems to be the thing to do, despite the trials and tribulations of the conversion process. Of course, anything can be made bulletproof to handle high power with enough $$$...

glassdoctor · 03.25.2007, 09:29 PM

I think the pede/rustler do have some weak spots.. but they are not too difficult or expenxive to fix.

I agree totally... the nitro versions are normally built tougher. A classic example.. probably the best one... was the HPI MT 1/10 truck. The original electric truck was a horribly fragile piece of crap. But then they redid the whole truck and came out with the nitro version. For some reason they never redesigned the electric, but dumped it instead.

My cousin still has a like new electric mt.... you almost have to treat it like a vintage r/c...

BP-Revo · 03.26.2007, 12:28 AM

Yes, I think the Nitro's are built better because of the whole "Nitro is faster" mindset which means harder impacts, etc. However, I think as soon as companies start including brushless systems standard (Losi doesn't count though, since the SS4300 isn't exactly a bullet, and thats a race truck). But once brushless systems are included in stuff like the E-Maxx (or equivilant truck) and such, things will get much tougher.

However, the Stampede and Rusty are the most durable RTR electric trucks if I ever saw one.

Jam, I'd say you can go with a MM4600 oor 5700 on 3S lipo, while keeping the young one to 2S lipo with the 4600 or 5700 if you think he's up do it. This can also be controlled with timing, punch control, and start power. Later on, an easy speed increase will just be an upgrade to 3S.

However, if you do want a T4, a buddy of mine is selling a NIB Factory Team one for a (very) resonable price - I'm actually selling it for him, its in my closet right now lol. Drop me a PM if interested.

BrianG · 03.26.2007, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BP-Revo

...This can also be controlled with timing, punch control, and start power. Later on, an easy speed increase will just be an upgrade to 3S....

Can't forget the EPA adjustment on your radio...

hyperasus · 03.26.2007, 01:18 AM

I think alot of people forget that the new XL5 pedes are alot better then they used to be. The problem with getting any 10th scale electric other then pede/rusy...nothing else has the revo type slipper. And lets face it. That revo style slipper is the only slipper on the market that actually works for high powered brushless.

Also. I wouldn't waist your money on a MM motor. Get the speed controller and a lower kv motor. Something in the 10s or even 12s range. I've tried pretty much every brushless motor you can fit on a pede. Anything higher then 3100kv will just be a pain in the ars.

BrianG · 03.26.2007, 01:21 AM

You don't think the 4600 on 6 cells is tame enough? I was planning on upgrading my son's pede with the MM and 4600 motor...

hyperasus · 03.26.2007, 01:59 AM

4600 is waaaaayy to high kv for a pede. Get the lowest kv S can sized motor Mike has. I'd recommend around 2400kv but I doubt you're lucky enough to find anything that low. If he still has any 2400kv Lehner Basic XL then snatch it up. Whatever you do, don't waist your money on a mm motor. Even the 4600 is WAY too high rpm. Believe it or not, that 2400kv will have more power, have MUCH better run times, and run cooler. With those higher kv motors its like they are lugging every where they go. Don't even worry about those lower kv motors not being fast enough. My pede has a 2600kv in it and I clocked it at 60mph with 3cell, and still had plenty of power in reserve. The common misconception that pedes need a 4000+kv motor to be fast is a fricken myth and it needs its own sticky on the subject. Hey, you should see my little bros pede go that has 1200kv lehner basic xl on 3cell. It's not exactly a bullet, but it'll beat the waller out of a stock pede. And go for over an hour between battery changes.

BrianG · 03.26.2007, 02:56 AM

Hmm. I didn't bother to look at the tranny ratios so I just assumed the 4600 would be ok. The 4600 in the Jato stays cool so I figured it would work ok in the Pede. You know what they say about assuming...

hyperasus · 03.26.2007, 03:38 AM

No offense to the rc calculator, but if you run the ratios on it at that KV it'll look slow. I find the calculator to be great for comparison purposes though. according to the rc calculator a 2600kv motor with 86t-spure/30t-pinion should only do 50mph, 55 tops on 3s lipo. Just isn't the case though. I've done 60 and it still had power to spare. Any faster and the nose of the truck goes up.

I haven't had a jato, but I still find it hard to believe a mm4600 can push a Jato without getting hot. You must really drive your trucks softly. Or have super week batteries.

crazyjr · 03.26.2007, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I don't know about the rest of you, but it seems the electric-specific vehicles don't seem as solid or built as sturdily as the Nitro counterparts. My son has a Pede and it works well and all, but for a speedy and/or powerful R/C, a Nitro roller conversion seems to be the thing to do, despite the trials and tribulations of the conversion process. Of course, anything can be made bulletproof to handle high power with enough $$$...

I agree to a certian extent, the nitro's do seem to be tougher toa certian extent. But there is an electric stadium that is as tough as any nitro, thats an associated T4. It has the GT diff and is all around stable with brushless power (except for on 3s:020: ) and the only parts i ever broke were my doing not from the power. I have a t4 RTR as well and run it for a year before i stepped up to the team, I never adjusted or rebuilt the diff in the time i run it. The T3 is good as well and in some cases may be better, the suspension seems to be tougher than the T4 and i have had one for four years and never rebuilt the diff. The reason i mentioned the diffs so much, is because i got friends who race XXX-T's and with stock (old style)ss5800's, they rebuild their diffs every 5 runs, because from the 6th to the 8th run, the diff will fail

BrianG · 03.26.2007, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hyperasus

No offense to the rc calculator, but if you run the ratios on it at that KV it'll look slow. I find the calculator to be great for comparison purposes though. according to the rc calculator a 2600kv motor with 86t-spure/30t-pinion should only do 50mph, 55 tops on 3s lipo. Just isn't the case though. I've done 60 and it still had power to spare. Any faster and the nose of the truck goes up.

I haven't had a jato, but I still find it hard to believe a mm4600 can push a Jato without getting hot. You must really drive your trucks softly. Or have super week batteries.

No offense taken. If the actual speeds are greater than calculated, there MUST be something to account for it; kv value is higher than spec'd, tire balooning, voltage maintaining a high level, etc. The calculator is not magic; it's just kv * voltage / total reduction ratio * tire circumference / 1056. (the 1056 is simply a simplified conversion from in/sec to mph). It's just math. Other people have used it and it comes out pretty darn close.

The 4600 pushes the Jato around with ease and does not get hot. And it's geared tall to get 47mph out of a single speed tranny and only 2s. I don't think the temp has gotten above 140* (measured). As far as driving style; well, I don't mash the throttle from a standstill all the time - that just wears out my tires. :) Oh, and I'm using 2s2p emoli packs for batteries. Cutoff is set to 3.1v/cell and the LVC doesn't kick in until the pack dumps, so the battery voltage isn't sagging badly.

@crazy: OK, "most" of the Nitros are built tougher. ;)