e-maxx or ? e-savage

[v1d9uy]

hmm that could be my 2speed switch but i switch the switch back and froth and it shifts fine id test but right now its all tore down to replace driveshafts lol

[SixShooter]

I also had a had a weak shifting servo. It would get stuck in a neutral. position. I swaped servos and problem solved.

[jhautz]

For bashing go Savage. I have a e-maxx that I love, but in the process of beefing it up so it won't break so easy I went and spent a ton of cash on it. Now it doesnt break anymore cuz it was so dang expensive I'm afraid to bash it hard.

I'm just starting on converting a savage that will remain as close to stock as possible (ecept it will be brushless) and its sole purpose in life will be to do the things that I wont do with my high dollar Maxx.

My opinion... go with the savage for pure bashing. It'll be cheaper in the long run.

[v1d9uy]

well i live somewhere it rains ... ALOT even tho we are getting into summer it still rains here ALOT so i am very tired of not being able to play with my e-maxx cux im afraid to kill the ESC in the water so i was thinking i would go savage so i could beat the $Hit outa it in the mud and rain and if i didnt like the gas or decided it just wasnt worth it id convert it to electric ... but if i might leave it gas i have to concider the revo again since the parts are more available locally i just got a mini-t from a friend for super cheap so that can be my "fair weather" car and the gas can be the rainy weather car lol

[SixShooter]

You have to water proof nitros as well. Anyhow, here is a guy with a Savage cruising around a lake.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/richard.short40/water.wmv

[Procharged5.0]

Just waterproof the maxx.

As six shooter mentioned ALL rc's need to be waterproofed if being run in/around water.

Servos, receivers, and esc's all need protection!

[v1d9uy]

my lhs wanted $65 for ONE set of MIP cvds .... and $55 for the center set
then they wanted $70 for the robinson racing diff gears and cup isnt that all a bit high ? i dunno maybe not. but i can use rdlogic cvds instead and only pay about $50 shipped for the entire set but you add all that up and thats a ton of money just to make something not break all the time .... im still concidering going nitro because i hate having 2 batteries then again i might be geting a mamba max from a friend for ... a really good price so then all i would need is a motor and i could run one battery .. but i should prolly go lipo then...

[Procharged5.0]

Why not use 3.3 specs driveshafts? They are inexpensive, tough, and flex slightly on the "big bits". Best value going.

I owned a set of RD-Logics and they looked nice. Almost as nice as Unlimited Engineering.
HOWEVER, I never actually used mine and I've heard that while they look nice the steel they use is cheap and breaks easily. I can't confirm or deny that personally but I can tell you that I've used the Traxxas 3.3 shafts (on my REVO 3.3 and they have been perfect!) and the UE Supermaxx 6mm on my SUpermaxx-Emaxx and they are tough!

Hope that's helpful.

[SixShooter]

Traxxas has started making CVDs...9.99 for two drive shafts and 20.00 for Centers. I'm not sure how well they work but I may give them a try. It want be until next month before they're released. As for RD Logics, I'm running a set on my son's Emaxx with zero issues. I always refer to them as off brands. Anyhow, I also run the stock centers as well. The only broken parts so far is a set of rear gears...maybe front also. But I'm also running stock Titans on his truck. I plan on running one of the above CVDs on my BL Emaxx soon. Just waiting on parts.

As for Nitro or Electric...thats a hard one. Now either way you choose, you will still need to beef up your vehicle. One way to do it, is to wait tell a weak part breaks and replace it with a better part.

[v1d9uy]

well right now i think my diff gears are going out cuz when i go from rev to forward i get a gear striping sound ... like it just skiped a few gears i took the diffs apart and cant see any signs of the gears striping but then again it might just be a combination of the plastic diff case flexing and the non shimed gears in there slipin. and on the 3.3 drive shafts i was going to go that way till i found out i had to replace the knuckles and a-arms just to run them.. because 3.3 shafts wont fit with stock a-arms correct ? and there is somethin with the knuckle having to be replaced to

[SixShooter]

There is times where it's very hard to spot ware on gears. It makes it easier to have a new gear set to compare old gears with.