Quark fried, blown capacitor...

I'm curious as to what S&T say.. they basically told me I had to send the controller in. Wouldn't tell me anything about the blown component.. The guy on the phone kept saying "it's hard to say".. even though, I told him it was the one component between the positive batt lead, and the FETs.. grrr.

[zeropointbug]

I got a hold of S&T, they said send it in and they would replace it... that's service.

BTW, he said when I get it back, I should solder a couple good caps on the input leads for preventative maintenance. He said it should be done with large 1/10, 1/8 scale vehicles.

So I am going to find a source for these 'NICC' NRSH caps and use them. I like the looks of the 35v 330uF caps, maybe get 4 of them...?

[jhautz]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

BTW, he said when I get it back, I should solder a couple good caps on the input leads for preventative maintenance. He said it should be done with large 1/10, 1/8 scale vehicles.

So I am going to find a source for these 'NICC' NRSH caps and use them. I like the looks of the 35v 330uF caps, maybe get 4 of them...?

Anyone got a recomendation for caps to use across the battery leads? Id like to do this mod. I feel like I push my Quarks pretty hard and anything I can do to help them I am interested in doing. Unfortunatley i'm kind of an electronincs dummy. I know capacitors basically just store a charge and release it when the overall system voltages drop to keep the votages as even as possible. How does adding more capacitiors help? Make it more resistant to voltage drop therfore drawing less amps by keeping the voltages higher?

Did S&T recomend a capacitior to use? A link to a place to purchase and any instalation instructions would be great.

[zeropointbug]

They are not really for voltage drop, they are for power conditioning and noise/spikes absorption. They take a crap load of abuse, obviously, and more of them spreads the load between each of them. They also provide more of a pulse when switching.

We should figure a good value for the capacity and use that, too much capacity, to much arcing will occur when plugging in batts.

About 'no comment', all I said was the cap had blown, I looked in, saw it... I mentioned I had a plate adhered to the case. He just kept telling me to send it in and they would replace it, he obviously didn't care, then he was talking to some guy in Switzerland? Who could that be? :005:

But yah, I'm thinking either 4 220, or 330uF caps right in next to the Quark input. I'll let you know what I decide

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by jhautz

Anyone got a recomendation for caps to use across the battery leads? Id like to do this mod. I feel like I push my Quarks pretty hard and anything I can do to help them I am interested in doing. Unfortunatley i'm kind of an electronincs dummy. I know capacitors basically just store a charge and release it when the overall system voltages drop to keep the votages as even as possible. How does adding more capacitiors help? Make it more resistant to voltage drop therfore drawing less amps by keeping the voltages higher?

Did S&T recomend a capacitior to use? A link to a place to purchase and any instalation instructions would be great.

Oh sorry didn't reply to you. The capacitor they recommend, sort of (easily available somewhat) is the Novak power capacitors. Just so they can say hey, here, this is the one we use, they work.... know what I mean.

Here is a LINK

They look good to me, should work great for the Quark, having 2 680uF caps.

[zeropointbug]

Forget that, that is the wrong capacitor for this, it's only 16v caps. They just mentioned Novak caps, so I searched it. But I can't seem to find 35v Novak ones, they seem to only have 25v caps, I don't think thats enough IMO.

I'll find something.

[zeropointbug]

What puts a bigger stress on the caps, braking or hard acceleration? My guessing would be braking, because of higher potential difference?