BL Revo using Revo Transmission? - Page 11 - RC-Monster Forums

Serum · 11.26.2006, 03:50 PM

Thanks Brain..

BrianG · 11.26.2006, 04:15 PM

I aim to please. :)

BrianG · 04.07.2007, 08:01 PM

A little update showing Mike's new motor mount installed in my Revo:

Very solid and installed with absolutely no trouble or issues.

glassdoctor · 04.07.2007, 08:12 PM

Looks great....

04.07.2007, 08:22 PM

looks great, hope mike made lots of these

jnev · 04.08.2007, 12:15 AM

Looks great indeed. Hope it works well fro you. Man... I really need to get some money and build a revo. :027:

SixShooter · 04.08.2007, 01:38 AM

Nice :004:

BrianG · 04.08.2007, 11:33 AM

I ran it around the yard a little today and took a couple of smallish jumps and everything still seems solid. I never really had any problems with my old mount but it would flex slightly when I pushed firmly on the back of the motor. This mount doesn't do that. So, if something is flexing, it's GOTTA be the chassis.

SixShooter · 01:39 PM

I'm sure it happens but it's going to take a lot to flex a stock chassis enough to notice something like spur/pinion grinding. So do you got some pictures of the whole truck?

BrianG · 04.08.2007, 01:38 PM

Yeah, there's a link in my sig "My Brushless Conversion"...

BrianG · 05.06.2007, 11:14 PM

Well, my 10XL in my Revo is gone. I tried to race it in a Truggy class this weekend and right off the bat it had very little power (compared to last year). After only about 1 minute of running it, I took it out of the race and the motor was HOT, but the ESC and batts were just fine. It wasn't going very fast at all and had zero punch. I don't know what happened, but am going to replace it with a 9XL, which should be a little better on 14 cells, yet ready for 5s lipo. When I took the motor apart, the windings looked a little blackened and crisp. I have no idea when that would have happened as I'm quite paranoid when it comes to heat. Oh well; good thing it's a cheap motor. :)

I was thinking of running a Neu on it, but I don't think a finned one will fit on Mike's motor mount. I know the finned or non-finned Neu won't be able to use the rear motor support feature. And, the smooth Neus can't use the RCM heatsink. Poo.

05.07.2007, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

Well, my 10XL in my Revo is gone. I tried to race it in a Truggy class this weekend and right off the bat it had very little power (compared to last year). After only about 1 minute of running it, I took it out of the race and the motor was HOT, but the ESC and batts were just fine. It wasn't going very fast at all and had zero punch. I don't know what happened, but am going to replace it with a 9XL, which should be a little better on 14 cells, yet ready for 5s lipo. When I took the motor apart, the windings looked a little blackened and crisp. I have no idea when that would have happened as I'm quite paranoid when it comes to heat. Oh well; good thing it's a cheap motor. :)

I was thinking of running a Neu on it, but I don't think a finned one will fit on Mike's motor mount. I know the finned or non-finned Neu won't be able to use the rear motor support feature. And, the smooth Neus can't use the RCM heatsink. Poo.

Brian I have a ton of experience with the big hackers in the aircraft world, may I be so bold as to suggest/point out the following...

The big hackers tend to have problems if something gives and they have a chance to spin fast with no load. Everytime this has happend (like 3 times with one of my motors) the coils will get burned up and you will have the symptoms you described. Recommend sending back to Hacker for repair before buying new, they've been extremely good about repairing under warranty for this type of problem.

Do you temp your motor after full runs? The commonly accepted threshold I've used for the larger hackers is under 180F if you surpass that, you'll likely burn the coils.

That motor is probably repairable for the price of shipping to Hacker...

Hope that helps.

BrianG · 05.07.2007, 11:16 AM

Thanks for the input!

Yeah, I have read about 130-140* tops after a full run in the past. Now, all I do is use the "hand test", and everything seemed fine, until this weekend. The only thing I can think of that changed from last year was the addition of a center diff. It was a bit loose before I put thicker oil in it (50k), so maybe it diffed out and the motor spun up too fast causing it to overheat. I don't really like the centerdiff in the Revo anyway and plan to remove it. It seems that if it's too loose, it diffs out badly; and if I put thick enough oil so it doesn't diff out, the diff is all but locked.

BTW: This isn't a hacker motor, it's a BK Wanderer.

Serum · 05.07.2007, 11:34 AM

Seems to me like you put the rear brace on wrong?

05.07.2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

Thanks for the input!

Yeah, I have read about 130-140* tops after a full run in the past. Now, all I do is use the "hand test", and everything seemed fine, until this weekend. The only thing I can think of that changed from last year was the addition of a center diff. It was a bit loose before I put thicker oil in it (50k), so maybe it diffed out and the motor spun up too fast causing it to overheat. I don't really like the centerdiff in the Revo anyway and plan to remove it. It seems that if it's too loose, it diffs out badly; and if I put thick enough oil so it doesn't diff out, the diff is all but locked.

BTW: This isn't a hacker motor, it's a BK Wanderer.

Oops, I saw 10XL and assumed a Hacker C50-10XL