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Old Skool
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Posts: 7,494
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Devon, England
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06.07.2007, 04:52 PM
Why does Candymans rusty spring to mind when you say that?...
That is/was a very good example of the problems involved with high HP in a stock layout. Nails, zip-ties, lumps of alloy.... poor thing.
At the very least the Emaxx need steel idlers, STRONG cvds, and 3.3 diffs to handle any kind of power. Then you can spend money on replacing the bulks/a-arms as they snap after every slight bump/jolt. Lowering the suspension & adding stiffer springs would help the handling alot too.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,729
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL Area
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06.07.2007, 04:59 PM
Yep. Lots of upgrading.
I've had success with stock diffs modified with alloy diff cases, FLM diff cups, and EP grease or more recently my own creation "MAXX LUBE" no jokes please. Quiet Rene!
It's a Extreme Pressure Lube lighter than grease, stick to parts like you won't believe, and has a higher filmstrength than most if not all EP grease.
I'm no chemist let alone a lubricant engineer (Quiet Rene!) but in collaboration with a major mfg. as a "pet project" we came up with a winner.
Supermaxx-Racer-X, VBS, FLM chassis & Transcase, HSR Motorsports Slipper, Cage, MMM ESC, NEU1515. REVO 3.3, BL X1-CRT, CRT, BL-CRT.5, Procharged '92 Mustang visit www.chitownrc.com and www.rcbros.com
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Old Skool
Offline
Posts: 7,494
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Devon, England
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06.07.2007, 05:15 PM
I should really get some alloy diff cases & 3mm screws, but they cost like $30 each- Sleeb knows where he can get some for $10, but I havent managed to prize that info out of him yet- need to pester him.
As for the MAXX LUBE..... *didnt need to say anything, the huge smirk on his face said it all*
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Guest
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06.07.2007, 06:14 PM
I remember my RC10T4. I was running a 7700 mamba max system in that on 3S lipo. I could almost sit and watch the parts fall off of that thing.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 834
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aubrey, Texas
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Just curious.... -
06.07.2007, 06:39 PM
I recognize that there is a ton of experience in this forum...I see a ton of rock solid recommendations on how to build the "perfect" brushless monster truck. Specifically, single brushless setups are the favored approach among 99% of those members on this forum. Just curious how many have actually built and driven a dual brushless setup? What approach was taken in terms of power supply (batteries) and motors?
In all honesty...the debate has intrigued me ever since I saw it posted on another forum. So I decided to build my own dual brushless setup just to see for myself. This way I learn...and will know from experience. My entire build is documented at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ssspconcepts/TitanMaxx
:032:
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Guest
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06.07.2007, 08:29 PM
I'm not saying that dual motor setups aren't nice. They are and look cooler than anything, when done right. It's just that the additional weight associated with running two motors isn't justified by the increase in performance. The motors also don't act completely in sync, so you don't actually realize a 100% increase in power at the wheels.
I'll be honest and say that I've never built a dual brushless setup, but on the other hand, actually doing it doesn't make it a good idea either.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 834
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aubrey, Texas
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06.07.2007, 09:47 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by AAngel
I'm not saying that dual motor setups aren't nice. They are and look cooler than anything, when done right. It's just that the additional weight associated with running two motors isn't justified by the increase in performance. The motors also don't act completely in sync, so you don't actually realize a 100% increase in power at the wheels.
I'll be honest and say that I've never built a dual brushless setup, but on the other hand, actually doing it doesn't make it a good idea either.
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I was sincerely looking for folks that have built dual BL setups and the approach they used...I was not trying to question anybody's expertise.
In my case, both ESCs are wired in parallel (i.e., battery plug and receiver plug-wired parallel). I also got a deans parallel battery plug adapter so that the batteries are also parallel to get more current to the ESCs. It is the same setup that castle used to run the barbie jeep...which carried a full grown adult.
It might take awhile to complete my experiment, but I plan to document vehicle weight, speed, run times, temps, etc. Eventually I'll switch out the Mamba BL for the Quark/Neu combo and replicate my documentation.
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Guest
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06.07.2007, 10:05 PM
I would imagine that running two systems might come of age when you can run two brushless motors from the same controller.
I'm not saying that having two motors won't be powerful. I'm just saying that there are better ways of going fast. If you put two 8XL motors in an emaxx, I'll bet it'll pull shopping carts around all day long. No question that the brute power will be there. I thought we were talking about going fast.
What is the idea behind running the escs and batteries in parallel. Isn't that the same as running two independent systems, but with more wiring?
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 834
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aubrey, Texas
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06.07.2007, 10:19 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by AAngel
I would imagine that running two systems might come of age when you can run two brushless motors from the same controller.
I'm not saying that having two motors won't be powerful. I'm just saying that there are better ways of going fast. If you put two 8XL motors in an emaxx, I'll bet it'll pull shopping carts around all day long. No question that the brute power will be there. I thought we were talking about going fast.
What is the idea behind running the escs and batteries in parallel. Isn't that the same as running two independent systems, but with more wiring?
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Bernie at Castle tells me that this assures that power draw and power consumption is "leveled" evenly between the two systems...essentially making the dual MM one system, and making the dual 3S packs one power source. Makes sense to me.
BTW...there are speed gains to be had...atleast in theory. Just plug in a 5700kv motor into the speed calc application....the simulation is impressive. I am going to find out if the simulation holds up to real world performance.
Last edited by ssspconcepts; 06.07.2007 at 10:22 PM.
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 52
Join Date: Mar 2007
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06.08.2007, 08:28 AM
ssspconcepts do you have any closer pictures of the way you put together that T connector for your battery leads?
Or even an explanation? I was about to start on trying this myself :)
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2 KiloWatt RACER
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Posts: 2,496
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston
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06.08.2007, 09:20 AM
I've seen that connector at RCPCRAWLERS
6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 834
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aubrey, Texas
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06.08.2007, 06:39 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by snellemin
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Spot on...that's what I used...tower sells it for about $7
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 52
Join Date: Mar 2007
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06.08.2007, 09:56 AM
thanks snellemin !
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hold my beer... watch this...
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Posts: 969
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: berkley, michigan
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06.08.2007, 10:12 AM
tower sells that one too, if it's easier for you to order from them.
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 88
Join Date: Mar 2006
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06.08.2007, 10:48 AM
I have decided that to be safe with the esc, I will go for the MGM 160. I am now considering a 7XL, or if a 6XL would work, I will take that. I know I will not go above 12 cells. If a 7XL has been used on a 5s lipo, I think a 6XL would be good on 12 cells. I will use the rc-monster heat sink motor clamp. Runtime for me is not an issue.
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