rc18t ready to go big. lol!

[t-maxxracer32]

ive been lookin at the super diff and have a question

does it still use that thurst ball crap? i think it is very stupid.. but o well

and also i was wondering... when it sais 1/2 after fully tightened how do you dertermine fully tightened? when you cant turn any more? when it feels hard to turn? what do i hold to keep it from being tighetned too much? its very confusing to how tight it actually has to be..

when the diff is tuned right what is it supposed to do? move freeely? or should the diff be stuck and not be able to move or what? if someone could explain this to me id appreciate it.

sorry if my post makes no sence but i understand it...

[VintageMA]

I had very good luck with the MIP diffs. Never had a stripped spur of pinion in either the front or rear diffs. Make sure you shim the diffs - I remember using two or three shims on the gear side of the diff for a good mesh.

I ran the buggy with a Mamba 6800 on 3s with no problems.

This is what I have learned over the years regarding ball diffs.

Tightening and loosening - you tighten the screw until it stops with "normal" pressure - don't try to crank it down hard. Then you back out the screw 1/2 turn (usually more like 1/4 turn that 1/2 turn for high power BL)

The rule of thumb that I had read about on other forums was this - if you take two small screwdrivers and stick one across each outdrive to hold the outdrives in place you should just be able to turn the diff gear with you hands, but it should be very hard to do.

You have to think of the ball diff as providing the same "slipping" function as the slipper gears do on our larger MTs.

Also - it is important to break-in ball diffs. Go to the xray website here: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2438. Read through the instructions on breaking-in the ball diff - it is very important you follow this for any ball diff in order to achieve the highest performance.