Differential Dimensions?

[BrianG]

What exactly are you shattering? I mean during normal use, not when you are trying to drill them.

And no, I can't help you with the dimensions - I'm just curious why you need to mod the diffs...

Everything in this picture:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPCY0&P=7

The smaller bevel gears are the ones that shatter, while the pinions will break off at the hole in the shaft. HPI has some new, hardened pinions, and I haven't broken one of those yet - today was my fourth broken differential, two deaths by pinion and two deaths by bevel gear.

All this from a Feigao 9L.

The gears are shattering cause they're hardened. You have to use tungsten carbide bits on hardened steel. TRX spyders (without shaft) are T and E Maxxes diff weakest part. RRP stuff is weaker yet (heat treating is not the best).

I've had decent luck with FLM diff cup upgrade - you get a new ring modded to use 3mm vs the 2mm stock screws and a better arrangement for the spyder cross shaft - its kinda keyed into a slot in the FLM alum diff cup so its less prone to move and bust spyders. The other thing needed are alum diff cases - even the 4 screw cases from 3.3 will not be strong enough to resist flexing that lets R&P pull just enough apart to start stripping teeth. Buy the cheapest alum diff cases you can find and a set of alum diff collars too.

The alum diff cases and the flm diff cup will last for a while - stronger than stock. The next step up is to HB diffs in flm hybrids or UE 6 or 8 sypder diffs. I've been thru this all this with small block to big block swap on Tmaxx.

Ah, that explains the shattering while drilling. I thought it might have been because I have cheap drill bits.

Unless I misunderstood, your other recommendations are for Maxx trucks, right? I may tuck those away in case I get sick of replacing diffs on my E-Savage and buy one of the new E-Maxx trucks instead. :-)