Extended Emaxx Chassis Dogbones Too Long

[refusalspam]

I just got the chassis and after installing the rear dogbones I'm getting a lot of binding. It seems like the dogbones are just a tad bit too long. Could I have assembled the transmission backwards (causing the outdrives to stick out with different lengths)? Anyone encountered this before?

[sjcrss]

Make sure your diff cups are seated fully and are on all the way, you can gain a few mm that way

[Serum]

You sure you didn't ordered the overextended dogbone with the extended chassis?

[suicideneil]

Which diffs do you have- stock, or hybrids? If its the hybrids, then the dogbones do tend to bind because the diff pinion gear shaft is a touch longer than a stock diffs is.

[wallot]

I had this issue once i got hybrids, Temp. solution was to raise the tranny 5mm up with spacers. Permanent solutions was Mike making me custom dogbones :)

[suicideneil]

My solution involved a dremel and a few hours careful work....

[Ninmaxx]

Yeah I followed this thread started by Neil when I got hybrids and the 1/8th diffs, You need to use the dremel to shave the shafts and cups because the 1/8 diff pinions are 2-3mm longer: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...8+diffs&page=2

I was wondering why I didn't have this prob - I'm slowly getting a FLM extended E-Maxx put together using hybrids/UE diffs and I did not have this prob at all. I have the proper amount of play with the supplied extended rear bone and the UE TI front bone.

I used UE drive cups on the diffs and the trans and this is apparently why I didn't have this prob. I guess this is a solution of sorts if you don't want to grind on the bones to get your clearance.

[refusalspam]

I just got my power back. I'm in Northern Calif where the massive storms just hit.
I'm pretty sure the diff cups are seated as far as can be since I'm still using the through screw/pin that's used to lock the cups to the outdrive shafts.
I'm using stock diffs and tranny. I doubt that I ordered the "overextended" bones since that doesn't appear to be an option on the website.
I already did a little grinding on one end of the cups to make everything smooth. I think for me, the binding occurs in the slot that the pin on the dogbone sits in. During rotation, the pin will be shoved further down the slot on one side than the other. I think if I can grind the slots a little deeper, that should do the trick.

[refusalspam]

Okay, the dremel work did it. I bought a 249 pc rotary bit set from Harbor Freight for $13 and its been worth every penny. I used the diamond encrusted grinding bits to extend the slots and smooth out the hole. Then I polished that up with one of the smoother aluminum oxide (green) bits.

While I had the dogbones out I went ahead and ground the machining marks off the rest of it and polished them up to make my own "shiny" CVD's. Unfortunately, I'm still not getting the finish that I want.

[Ninmaxx]

Glad to hear that you got it to work! Hmm what type of finish are you trying to get? With the dremel you will get brushed looking..

[suicideneil]

If you can find some aluminum oxide sandpaper, or very fine wet & dry paper, that will help. Clamp the dog bone in a drill or lathe somehow, and use the sandpaper on it whilst gently spinning the bone.