Direct Drive to Diff E Revo Build - Page 25 - RC-Monster Forums

potreinas · 02:05 PM

WoW!!! how much power!!

Are you telling that the "Hot Bodies Spiral 10 tooth pinion" with the "Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Diffs (43 tooth spiral ring type)" doens't resist the outrunner power??? AWESOME,

I bought a pair of hot bodies spiral diffs for my CRT because of I thought they were the best...

May I put the new 43/10 spiral ones ? or let the original 43/13 ones?

Thanks.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by potreinas

WoW!!! how much power!!

Are you telling that the "Hot Bodies Spiral 10 tooth pinion" with the "Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Diffs (43 tooth spiral ring type)" doens't resist the outrunner power??? AWESOME,

I buyed a pair of hot bodies spiral diffs for my CRT because of I thought they where the better...

May I put the new 43/10 spiral ones ? or let the original 43/13 ones?

Thanks.

Actually the gears themselves are super tough and really hard stuff. IF the bearings would hold up and keep the mesh right.

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 08:16 PM

I think it should be possible to shim everything just right. That should eliminate the driveline issues.

Does your ESC have a ramp up feature? I set my HV110 to slow start and it helps keep from hammering the driveline.

Awesome power. Just awesome.

Matt

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

I think it should be possible to shim everything just right. That should eliminate the driveline issues.

Does your ESC have a ramp up feature? I set my HV110 to slow start and it helps keep from hammering the driveline.

Awesome power. Just awesome.

Matt

I did shim everything JUST right. It was perfect.

The spiral cut gears are punching the inside race right through the bearing.

I could lower the starting power some in the ESC setup.........I guess

Thanks.

lincpimp · 01.20.2008, 08:21 PM

Ah, Sike makes his first appearance on camera! Is that grating sound the bearing coming apart? I had my stock diff revo do the same thing, the inside bearing let its balls go and it was making quite a crunching sound. I got the truck used so I have no idea how many runs were on that diff. I replaced it with another stock diff and have not had any issues yet.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:44 PM

Here's yet another Vid

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 08:48 PM

Ahh, good deal. Sorry, I was not trying to offend you by suggesting the shimming. I haev just seen it so many times (poor shimming) that it is second nature to mention it.

Hey, how much room so you have for a thrust bearing? I can cut a CF washer on my CNC for you. CF has a very slick hard surface that works well as a thrust bearing when there is not enough depth for a normal thrust bearing. I have done it with decent success.

othello · 09:07 PM

Nice display of raw power. Congratulation on your outrunner setup (especialy for custom winding your 4130). It would be interesting to log some data with an eagletree: with the rpm sensor you could immediately tell what kv your custom wound motor now has. You really should get one

I wonder what would happen at startup with a jazz 55-10-32 or a MGM 9032 on 10s1p A123 with your factory wound 4130/20 (305kv). Determining the right KV of your outrunner in combination with the right voltage to eliminate cogging at startup with the right esc seems to be the most challenging/interesting part. Your setup seems to do well with a very small hicup when starting up from a near stand still.

BTW: i had the same bearing problems (spiral cut pinion/diff) with my Neu 1512/2Y on 10s1p A123 in my buggy. I changed the bearing quite often. I thought it was due to the fact that the buggy already was 10 years old when i converted it to brushless.

sikeston34m · 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

Ahh, good deal. Sorry, I was not trying to offend you by suggesting the shimming. I haev just seen it so many times (poor shimming) that it is second nature to mention it.

Hey, how much room so you have for a thrust bearing? I can cut a CF washer on my CNC for you. CF has a very slick hard surface that works well as a thrust bearing when there is not enough depth for a normal thrust bearing. I have done it with decent success.

The bearing itself is 8x14x4mm. Each Pinion uses two of them.

How it's setup now, the front pinion tries to push into the front diff, while the rear pinion tries to pull out of the diff.

Maybe just use CF on the load bearing side and a Ceramic Nitride bearing on the free wheeling side of the pinion. Think that would work? It sounds good.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by othello

Nice display of raw power. Congratulation on your outrunner setup (especialy for custom winding your 4130). It would be interesting to log some data with an eagletree: with the rpm sensor you could immediately tell what kv your custom wound motor now has. You really should get one

I wonder what would happen at startup with a jazz 55-10-32 or a MGM 9032 on 10s1p A123 with your factory wound 4130/20 (305kv). Determining the right KV of your outrunner in combination with the right voltage to eliminate cogging at startup with the right esc seems to be the most challenging/interesting part. Your setup seems to do well with a very small hicup when starting up from a near stand still.

BTW: i had the same bearing problems (spiral cut pinion/diff) with my Neu 1512/2Y on 10s1p A123 in my buggy. I changed the bearing quite often. I thought it was due to the fact that the buggy already was 10 years old when i converted it to brushless.

Aaah, so I'm not the only one. LOL

I've never tried a Jazz ESC, they look really good though. The MGM is said to work well with outrunners.

Yes it is an interesting challenge. Now for the diff challenge.

BL_RV0 · 01.20.2008, 09:40 PM

hey sike, can you tell me the name of your revo vids?

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 09:56 PM

You will still need a roller bearing on the pinion side. Two bearings are needed for proper input shaft support. I was wondering what teh clearance is between teh pinion and the bearing near it. If there is enough clearance there to put a CF or stainless washer there, that would work. Maybe a narrower roller bearing would provide the needed clearance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

The bearing itself is 8x14x4mm. Each Pinion uses two of them.

How it's setup now, the front pinion tries to push into the front diff, while the rear pinion tries to pull out of the diff.

Maybe just use CF on the load bearing side and a Ceramic Nitride bearing on the free wheeling side of the pinion. Think that would work? It sounds good.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

You will still need a roller bearing on the pinion side. Two bearings are needed for proper input shaft support. I was wondering what teh clearance is between teh pinion and the bearing near it. If there is enough clearance there to put a CF or stainless washer there, that would work. Maybe a narrower roller bearing would provide the needed clearance.

I currently have 3 - .2mm shims there right now. It makes the mesh just right.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BL_RV0

hey sike, can you tell me the name of your revo vids?

Here's all my vids on Youtube.

http://youtube.com/profile_videos?user=sikeston34m&p=r

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

I currently have 3 - .2mm shims there right now. It makes the mesh just right.

You will need at least 1.5mm CF wafer to act as a decent thrust bearing. If there is any way to run a narrower bearing there, you could add a thrust washer and that would most likely work.