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lincpimp
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01.27.2008, 08:05 PM

Thanks Rene, I found the nitro motor plare braces and will drill one out to 4mm. FYI the tranny holes do not line up, almost 1/4" off. Not really a problem, as it is plastic and some small holes can be drilled/reamed in the correct places.
   
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jhautz
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01.27.2008, 08:24 PM

I'm building mine right now also and the motor plate and hole that it is supposed to mount to on the transmision are WAY off. I see the same thing that linc does. Here are a couple pictures to help you understand which holes are off. I'll email these to Mike also so he can get them to Jamie and make an adjustment in the design. Its no big deal to pop a couple holes in the motor plate in the correct spot. It could even be done by drilling holes int he plastic tranny hosing to amtch the motor plate. It must just be some sort of miscalculation.

Heres the pics. One from the top and one from the bottom so you can see the difference in hole loaction. Everything else lines up perfect so I'm sure this wont come in any more when everything is final tightened. Its much to far off.


Attached Files
File Type: pdf Savage hole location.pdf (31.1 KB, 454 views)


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cemetery gates
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01.27.2008, 09:18 PM

I had the same problem(motor plate hole that it is supposed to mount to on the transmission.) I did not use any screws there and have not has a problem. There was also some conical washers missing from my kit and fit-ment could have been better(brake servo was being squished(technical term) against the bulkhead, servo plate needed to be modded for a better fit). I would not recommend this kit for beginners, it could use some instructions...

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jhautz
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01.27.2008, 10:52 PM

One more problem I ran into is if you use the spacers on one side TVP to give more battery room the pins that engage the TVPs on the front and rear bulk heads dont mate into the hole. I had to pull the 4mm pin out and I put a little spcer in the hole to keep the pin from going all the way in. I just pushed a short 4mm grub screw in there to keep the pin from bottoming out in the hole. This allowed it to stick out far enough to engage the TVP. It needs to be done on only the side you are using the spares with and only if you use the spacers.

I also needed to open up the hole on one of the spacers to 5mm so it will fit over the 5mm metal threaded insert in the bulk heads.


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lincpimp
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01.27.2008, 11:06 PM

Well, I got everything together, and it looks good. My only issue is that the motor will not slide fully with the rear support installed. Not a big deal, but if you have a tight battery fitment (like I do) the extra few mm will make the difference between the gears meshing and not. I may mod the rear portion of the motor mount plate to allow for full adjustment.

Instructions are a must. I have put together at lest 40 rc vehicles and did have to sit and stare for a while. Thanks to Serum and everyone else. I only had to drill out the threads on one of the motor plate crossmembers to use as the servo brace support. Maybe this part was supposed to be included?
   
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jhautz
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01.27.2008, 11:19 PM

Did you use the spacers on one of the TVPs for extra battery room? If you did what did you do for the pin and the metal insert that is supposed to fit into the TVP?


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lincpimp
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01.27.2008, 11:23 PM

I do not like the spacer idea, so I will make it work without the spacers. I will step up to a 52t spur and a 20t pinion. That may help the motor clear the battery. This truck is going to be fast, like 45mph or so. The two speed should help with that. Setup is a 9xl on 5s thru a quark 125 airmaster.
   
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