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lincpimp
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02.07.2008, 10:51 PM

Have not received the trays yet, but I did some work to the MM.

I decided to add a novak cap the the board where the main power leads attach. I left about 1.5 inches of wire on the cap so that i could mount it out of the way.

While i had the plastic case off I had a good look at the MM. Turns out that the heatsink was barely glued on! I removed it and the thermal glue residue. I then filed the bottom flat with a file and used some arctic silver thermal epoxy to hold it together. I used very little and made sure that I coversed the entire surface of the fets with a thin coating. It looks good now and the only light that can be seen is between the rows of fets from each end. I feel better that the heatsink is properly attached!

I will have to check my other MM escs and see how they are!
   
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lincpimp
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Update with Pics! - 02.11.2008, 06:35 PM

Got the battery trays in today and did some work to the motor mount.

I had to flip the motor mount upside down so that the motor would sit where the nitro engine would be. This was due to the fact that the battery trays overlap the chassis toward the center. Since the diff is offset to one side, the motor fit nicely on the other side. I had to cut a portion of the motor mount off and enlarge the thread on the bottom from m3 to m4. The diff sits higher now, and I had to mod the existing front bulk to get the bearing carrier holes level for the center diff.

I will have to make a new srevo tray and upper plate for the center diff bulks. I have some cf sheet that I will use for that. Looks like the MM will be across from the motor and the receiver will be across from the steering servo.

The battery trays did not come with the straps, those are emaxx battery straps. The al stap mounts were included, but no bolts or screws came with the trays. I eventually found that the small allen head screws that come with the associated battery cups had the correct thread (sae) and they have a hole drilled thru the head to accept a body clip to retain the straps. It would be nice if RC Product Designs would have included a note about that.

I need to scare up some diff gaskets, as it is too tight with the Kyosho plastic gear and the spider gears are binding. That should also space the center diff correctly in the bulks, as there is a bit of play right now.

Hopefully I can get those parts together quickly and finish this build!

Heres the pics:



   
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