Thanks - I have the old Emaxx, bought used, not running, in sad shape. In good shape now and showing some power, lol! I have the 3.3 cvds, knucks and tb's on my flm Emaxx with the GM race suspension, but not quite finished yet. I did have to clearance the arms near the diffs so the ends of the cross pin would clear the arm.
If this the same deal, not much work as I suspected, wanted to be sure. The 3.3 stuff seems to be the best way to go. Notice ebayers now don't sell it all togther anymore - guess they weren't making enough $$.
It's only as strong as it's weakest link. The next thing I would look into if you haven't already done it, is the transmession and diffs. Aluminum diff covers is a must have...we was breaking plastic ones with stock Titans.
Last edited by SixShooter; 02.13.2008 at 04:26 PM.
When I got this sad puppy, I went thru everything, changed to a set of tony's hex head alloy steel screws. New brgs everywhere, UE trans idlers and TI centers, trx wheelie bar and set of revo wheel and tires. Upgraded strg servo and new evx speedo. I shimmed the diffs and was close to replacing them, but wanted to get it up and running so stock ones went back in with fresh brgs. I have a set of UE 6 spyders in GA 7075 bulks ready to go if needed but hoping to use it on a nitro.
Diffs have been solid so far, but you're right eventually, one or the other will strip. Once 3.3 cvds are installed and that flex in the driveline is gone, diffs are the next weak link.
Yes sir, I went through the same thing with my son's Emaxx. It was junk from day one.
Anyhow, He's twisted shafts, stripped gears, and busted diffs all on the stock twin Titans. I guess a 3yr old is harder on parts Thats funny, he turns 6yrs old in a few weeks.