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JThiessen
RC-Monster Brushless
 
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Location: Edmonds WA
02.25.2008, 02:55 PM

Generally speaking, the advice given so far is on the money. A powered sub with built in crossover is the way to go for your fronts. AND you did the right thing by getting an extra set of towers for your rears (I assume they are identical to the RL and RF?). Timber matching the complete set is the "proper" way to set up surrond sound. And no, just haveing the same brand of speakers does not mean they are timbre matched. They need to be the same size drivers and performance specs to be numerically matched.
I run 4 Definitive Technology Mythos 4's with a Mythos 8 center and an M&K 1000W sub.


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
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_paralyzed_
working on a brushless for my wheelchair.....
 
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02.25.2008, 03:11 PM

wow,def tec! remember the bp2000's with the built in 18" powered sub? awesome......


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It's "Dr. _paralyzed_" actually. Not like with a PhD, but Doctor like in Dr. Pepper.
   
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_paralyzed_
working on a brushless for my wheelchair.....
 
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02.25.2008, 03:24 PM

lets remember his setup, he has 285 watts coming out of his reciever for a sub, so that means he doesn't need a plate amp, and yes, a powered sub is the easiest solution. I assume your kicker is 4 ohms(most car subs are) so you've proven your reciever can handle 4ohms. you could step up to a 15" woofer, or run two 12" 8 ohm subs in parralel, a couple more efficient speakers splitting the power would give you more volume. I guess we need more info. Do you want a cheap solution, an easy solution, or the right solution? I personnaly would put the kicker back in the car, run no sub off your reciever allowing it to only run mids and highs, and get a big ole 15" powered subwoofer, a cerwin vega, with the red surround, that will shake sh@! off of walls


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It's "Dr. _paralyzed_" actually. Not like with a PhD, but Doctor like in Dr. Pepper.
   
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