Project E-Revo

hey dicky, what was your method when doing the lock out 2nd gear. I don't get how to cut through the metal piece and make that U shape 3 corners.

[jnev]

Take a look here CharLemagne:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7441

Originally Posted by thetick

Where are you going to mount the controller? I noticed that tekno makes a mount but I don't know where it goes.

I have the tekno mount on the truck now. I rather like it.i may change it later when I get access to tools to cut this 3mm CF sheet i have. I tried with a dremel and it just takes way to long.


@ CharLemagne, i used a dremel and slowly ground the indentions in.

where can i find a good dremel?

[thetick]

Any hardware store. Otherwise, just buy some small files.

[Revo_Racer88]

is it a necessity to lock out the two speed what are the advantages with it???

[Sammus]

No it's not a necessity. If you do it means you can use motor braking and reverse. Apart from the fact that I can't use motor braking (ESC doesn't do it properly) I don't want to lock mine because starting in second, and using the esc to brake will put more load on the esc and make it heat up more.

[mahazael]

awesome freaking conversion man. I am actually going to be starting mine tomorrow. You have inspired me and showed some good resources on how to do a good conversion.

I am actually interested in using the novak HV 4.5 setup with the 3amp HV bec unit which allows the HV up to 7s lipos/22 nimh. While I think 7s LiPo would be just stupid fast (and cook the internals) it is nice that it would allow for a 5s without worry.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/BEC/index.html

What are thoughts on that? I would probably lock the 2nd gear add the 5mm sintered rotor. What types of gearing would be used etc?

Do you see a benefit in this system..

I had actually considered going the route of the NEU w/ a quark monster pro but I am not much of a MM fan (seen too many fried.. and cogging.. ugh - although I hear the new software fixed that)

Also, w/ the release of the new e-maxx with revo slipper.. those spur gears will now fit on to the stock revo.. however there is problem of the size of them. They may not fit without a bit more modding of the rcm revo electric motor mount (spacing and meshing). Anyone tried?

Just some thoughts..

Thanks! I'm not a fan of sensored systems, and do not know how you would want to gear that. search the forums for it or start a thread. I have zero cogging with the MM after the update, but it is going back to it's 5700 motor soon.

I crashed the Revo, right front wheel first into a tree last night at over 40mph when the radio glitched. I stripped my steering servo.

Woke up this morning and ordered a Quark 125b, then went to lhs and got a Spektrum DX3R and JR DS8611A 320oz. servo. :D

5s to the Neu soon!

[electric]

the servo will that turn the two front tires well thanks

that is an understatement. I though the 645mg with digital board replacement did well, in comparison it felt sloppy.

I just had my 1st successful test run on 5s. I tried last night and shredded the front diff underbraking. next item to save for rc-m diffs ;)

Tonight went well. I ended this run with braking toned down on the radio to 70% but spun the nut off the slipper in reverse.

The CD kinda helps keep the front end down. but mostly it just unloads to the fronts hard and wheelies anyway, even with ofna diff lock lube in. Is there anything thicker than that stuff?

5s is ridiculously overpowered. My next lipo packs will be 4s and save the 5s for vulgar displays of power.

I will shoot video on satuday.

[mahazael]

Nice! Are you still running the Mamba or did your quark come in?

I think you have convinced me to stck with 4s for now. I ended up with the same motor you have but I am running it on a Mamba Max /cc bec 4s. I am in the process of hunting down a quark.

Can't wait to see the videos!

[pipeous]

the thing with the center dif, if you go even thicker then it will wheelie more. it's like make a solid shaft down the center. the thicker it is, the more weight it transfers evenly to both axles. with it locked you turn both and it will wheelie. when a center dif unloads under acceleration, you'll see the front wheels ballooning because of weight transfer to the rear, making the front light and power unloads there.

I am not trying to be argumentative, or insulting. just my opinion on difs. personally I like thinner oils in difs so they actually work. center is different than the 2 ends but you get no dif action from dif lock, well very little at all anyway.

try 30k and I bet you'll have tamed the wheelies down, even 40K

Originally Posted by pipeous

the thing with the center dif, if you go even thicker then it will wheelie more. it's like make a solid shaft down the center. the thicker it is, the more weight it transfers evenly to both axles. with it locked you turn both and it will wheelie. when a center dif unloads under acceleration, you'll see the front wheels ballooning because of weight transfer to the rear, making the front light and power unloads there.

I am not trying to be argumentative, or insulting. just my opinion on difs. personally I like thinner oils in difs so they actually work. center is different than the 2 ends but you get no dif action from dif lock, well very little at all anyway.

try 30k and I bet you'll have tamed the wheelies down, even 40K

I was talking about the center diff, I do not have diff lock in the front or rear, They still have oem grease in them, and the lock lube does not lock center i can freely move it by hand. It is a hair thicker than 500k, but does not lock like silly putty would. the fronts balloon horribly. I've gotten a bit more used to it and can get fast acceleration with out wheelies now, but at WOT with all 4 planted the fronts still turn into dinner plates. I put the spool back in and all it wants to do is wheelie at any speed.