My CRT.5 conversion w/ ET & radar data

[kulangflow]

Originally Posted by Finnster

It still wheelies quite easily as well on the undersized 3S 2100.

Hey Finnster, is that 3s 2100 a MaxAmps battery? Is it really able to handle the current well, or does it get pretty hot?

Thanks.

[Finnster]

That's actually a 140g Align battery I got on clearance. Its only 20c, so its a bit pushed. I did order the Neu batts (30C 2500) and they handle the current better. I have some ETs for that I'll put up when I get a chance.

I could prolly run that batt, but i'd have to cut the amp draw, basically lower the gearing. I'm saving it for more race situations where top end won't be so high.

With the 4S 2500 batt I was pulling 120A+, and ~75A pretty steadily. I had one peak of over 1300W IIRC. Insane. 3S is more the daily batt and runs really well but can still put out ~1000W.


The nice thing about the LMT is the gearing isn't picky at all. As long as its not grossly over or under loaded it runs cool no matter what.

[BL_RV0]

wow! looks great. have one suggestion thugh- why not plane the MM over the center diff? it seems like it would run cooler because of better airflow. just my double pennies.

[Finnster]

Here are some more ET data shots. These are the Neu batts. The first is the 3S 30C 2500 pack (14/46 gear), the 2nd is the 4S 30C 2500 pack (13/46). Both are with the big mashers on. The 4S pack doesn't have much data as the fracking kingpin bushing came out after I back flipped it at 40 something mph and skidded down the road. I drove it around for a little bit with the wheel flopping around, but had to end it early. It was on the run where I pulled nearly 1400W, but that power just sent the CRT on its lid. We'll have to work on it a bit, I really want to be able to hit 60mph. It'll have to be on the buggy wheels and with lots of luck tho. The runs on the 3S pack are clocking in at 46mph.

3S:


4S:

[Finnster]

Originally Posted by BL_RV0

wow! looks great. have one suggestion thugh- why not plane the MM over the center diff? it seems like it would run cooler because of better airflow. just my double pennies.

Basically I wanted to keep everything low and compact. The MM is running very cool as it is, so the trade off in CoG is not worth it IMO. Plus, I want to be able to remove the CD as easily as possible. Its really the only way to get at the motor bolts to adjust gearing, etc., and I don't want to have to undo a lot of things to do it. As it is now, the CD is off w/ 4 screws.

I'll have to post some more pics when I get the kingpin bushings in and repaired. I'll show the LEDs, and also a side shot where you can see the CD top plate is about the highest point on the main chassis.

[Finnster]

Got to do some spd runs this weekend and put the crt to the test. It was hard to do, but managed to break 60 on the radar. Lots of near disasters and high spd crashes (mostly due to 50mph+ wheelies when I finally open it to WOT.) Really wish I had a longer straighter road to really lay it out, but its the best I got for now.

Short vid w/ lots of crashes:
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[Tobbe]

Damn! Didn't anything break in those crashes?! That thing was fast!! Very nice!