HexHeads Armor Plated Screws

First thing I do with a new rc is to replace all the screws. I use the black oxide, high strength alloy steel, grade 12.9 or 10.9 (smaller) hex screws and I use a set of Thorp drivers. Early on I found the SS ones are pretty, but strip when used more than several times and are not very strong.

I have bought screws from hexcrews, but just the kits for 18th scale and always black oxide. I've never had a problem with breakage or stripping heads on any of their screws.

All my bigger stuff comes from Tony's Screws - I haven't had any problems.

[JThiessen]

Rule number 1: If you need strength, stay well away from stainless. Stainless is made by adding nickle content to the steel, thus making is softer. The ONLY reason you should ever have stainless is for corrosion prevention, or for bling. Generally speaking, if its shiny, its onthe soft side. Anodizing is the only real way to get a high strength fastener with any amount of bling.

Rule Number 2: NEVER - EVER - buy aluminum fasteners, even if they say "aircraft grade" (which by the way means absolutely nothing - but most people dont know that, so they use it to make it sound high tech).

Rule of thumb - if the price is really good, the fasteners likely are not.

Second rule of thumb - MOST higher grade fasteners do not come in phillips or slotted screw driver configuration. Most are sold as either a hex head or socket head configuration.

Make sure you use the correct loc-tite. Steel-plastic is a different compound than steel to aluminum. No, using what you have wont provide even a little bit of help if its the wrong compound.

I personally do not use loc-tite. I prefer to check my fasteners, rather than have to deal with extra tight screws.

In SAE specs, the higher the grade number, the higher the strength. They are normally graded 1, 3, 5, 8.... you shouldnt need anything over 3 or maybe a 5 on a RC. If you get into 8 and above, they tend to be brittle, and dont handle shear loads very well.

[ssspconcepts]

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