Glow plug recommendations

[Gee]

Hi guys, I'm giving nitro a try for a while. I bought the neighbors Jato 2.5 and in the same week got the Duratrax Raze Truggy. So far I've been give four differnt glow plugs from the LHS's when I asked what kind to use. I live up in the Pacific Northwest (not the rainy side) if it matters. I'm also running 33% in both of them. So what glow plug would you recommend for....

Traxxas Jato .15 cu in (2.5cc)
and
Supertigre G-27CS .27 cu in (4.4cc)

Any good places to pick them up at, quanity discounts?



Also a little confused on the .15 and 2.5 numbering scheme. Can anyone shed some light on what the numbers mean?

Thanks.

[Gee]

Okay, I know there not a lot of Nitro guys hanging out at RCm, but before I go through the registration at a nitro forum to ask one question I though you all deserved a second chance. I'm betting some of you have experienced the nitro side and that why you are running electic now.

I see there are three different ranges for the glow plugs. Hot, med, cold. Is this for the type of fuel being used? Are the glow plugs based on the fuel being used or the size of engine that you have? Meaning can I run the same type of plug in the engines above if I am running the same fuel in them?

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

I was running Mccoy mc59 in my 2.5r but I was running 20% nitro
.15/.12 etc. refers do the displacement size of the engine in cubic inches (same as a full size car)
This 2.5 is a .15 engine. The 2.5 refers to a measurement of Cubic Centimeter displacement compared to Cubic Inch displacement (.15).

[rchippie]

The best plugs i have found for the traxxas motors are the traxxas 3232 or the mcoy mc59.

[Robert]

Yup, I run the traxxas plugs on 33%. While they are fun, there's alot of work it seems with nitro. I've gone from elctric to nitro and now headed back to electric. Enjoy your trip. ;)

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Originally Posted by Robert

Yup, I run the traxxas plugs on 33%. While they are fun, there's alot of work it seems with nitro. I've gone from elctric to nitro and now headed back to electric. Enjoy your trip. ;)

lol, yeah well at least you learned the 1st time, i went from electric to nitro back to electric than nitro and now finally back to electric

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Originally Posted by Gee

Any good places to pick them up at, quanity discounts?

You use to be able to buy them in bulk at Tower Hobbies but can't seem to do that anymore But anyway Tower sells them for $6.59 ea and Amain sell them for $5.99
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2203

[Gee]

Originally Posted by RC_KAOS

I was running Mccoy mc59 in my 2.5r but I was running 20% nitro
.15/.12 etc. refers do the displacement size of the engine in cubic inches (same as a full size car)
This 2.5 is a .15 engine. The 2.5 refers to a measurement of Cubic Centimeter displacement compared to Cubic Inch displacement (.15).

Thanks I now understand the reason for the two different numbers and now know they mean the same thing. I remember wondering about those numbers years ago. Long before I got into this hobby.

Doah! cubic inches and cc = cubic centimeters

McCoy was one of the ones the LHS sold me for the larger engine and it seems to be running well. I was given a traxxas plug for the Jato from a different LHS and it didn't do too well. I may have been given the wrong one. It was a 3230 (hot) plug. I will try one one of the 3232 plugs out. My original plans (which almost always change) was to buy a truggie and convert it to electric. But then the neighbor was selling the Jato and couldn't pass up the price he was asking. So ended up with a cheaper truggie and the Jato. Most likely will do the conversion this fall.

This has been work and I am understanding more of the nitro side so I will be able to rib the nitro guys better. It's still a fun way to learn about the nitro side and the challange is still there to tune it right and what not. But it is more work so far. Been a couple time had to force myself to go and do the afterrun crap. Then the 2.5 has been a lot more difficult to tune in then the 4.4 was. Oh, and the fumes! Man that burns the eyeballs right out of your head. They always die when they the farthest away, 26 bucks for a gallon of fuel and no reverse.

THanks for the input.

THanks RC_Kaos I'll do some looking around. I usually check the prices at stormer hobbies also. Usually cheaper then Tower on most of the items. A Main seems like a good place also. Got some gears from them once and they shipped em out pretty fast.

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

One thing to probably do to help tuning and better knowledge with the motor is to take the carby & backplate off and get some copper gasket sealant and put around those areas to stop leaks. Highly recommended for Traxxas Engines, do wonders with my 2.5R and also not sure about the JATO fuel tank seal but if it is just a skinny blue little rubber, than replace it with a actually oring from a hardware/hose fitting shop

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

In order for an engine to idle, transition and tune consistently it must be airtight- airtight meaning that no air can enter the engine except through the carburetor intake. Surprisingly, even brand new out-of-the-box high-end engines can have air leaks and until these leaks are found and eliminated, the engine won't run consistently and cannot be precisely tuned. The good news is, several years ago I figured out an easy way to check for and fix air leaks. You'll need the following:
• A small glass of soapy water
• A small brush
• About a foot of fuel tubing

Step 1. Be sure that the high-speed needle is open at least two turns out and the throttle is at fully open.
Step 2. Install one end of the fuel tubing on the carburetor nipple. You're going to be blowing into the other end of the tubing to pressurize the engine crankcase.
Step 3. Place your thumb over the carburetor intake to prevent air from escaping, then blow into the fuel tubing while brushing soapy water around the base of the carburetor, on both sides of the pinch bolt, around the fuel fittings, at the high and low speed needle valves, around the front bearing and even around the back plate.

If any bubbling occurs you've got an air leak. But don't be alarmed. Fixing the leak is easy and your engine will run remarkably better and more consistently when you've eliminated these leaks.

The most common air leaks seem to occur around the pinch bolt. Applying a dab of RTV (or silicon) over both exposed sides of the pinch bolt will fix this type of leak. RTV is also great for sealing any leaks around the base of the carburetor. Simply remove the carburetor and run a small amount of RTV around the base of the carb where the leak occurred. Reinstall the carburetor and allow the RTV to ooze out between the crankcase and the carb body. For leaks around the high-speed needle valve fittings, usually retightening the high-speed needle assembly will take care of these. Leaks directly at the high speed or low speed needle usually means there's a damaged O-ring that must be replaced. Many racers don't realize that the front bearing can leak air. That's why nearly every high-end engine uses a rubber sealed front ball bearing to not only keep out dirt, but also air. If your front bearing leaks air, it's time for a bearing replacement.

This simple leak check can easily be done even when the engine is installed in a car. After you've done this test on several engines you'll be surprised of two things: first, how often unwanted air leaks occur and second, how much better your engine runs, idles and tunes when it's airtight. To run right it must be airtight!

Airtight Fuel system
The Fuel system must also be airtight. If the fuel tank, tank lid, fuel lines or filter has a leak then the same kind of tuning issues as described above will occur. While you can check the fuel system by using the same method of brushing soapy water onto the suspected offending area while blowing into the tank, I generally find it better to simply remove the tank from the car and submerse it in a sink of water while blowing into the vent line and plugging the fuel line. If bubbles are present you've got a leak.

An engine at full throttle produces about 6 to 8 psi in the vent line and conversely in the tank. By blowing really hard you're also able to produce about 6 to 8 psi for a couple of seconds. If you're able to blow hard enough to cause the tank lid to open slightly and leak, it's time to replace the tank lid spring or bend more preload in the spring. The entire system (fuel tank, fuel filters, fuel lines, tank fittings, etc.) must be airtight to achieve consistent repeatable performance. I always that my fuel system is airtight when it's new but also recheck it every time I rebuild a car after a race. It easy insurance plus soapy water is a good way to thoroughly clean the tank. Just be sure it's totally dry before using it by flushing out any water left in the tank with fuel before installing it in you car.

i got a revo 3.3 with a new os 18 and a tekno revo up grad kit and a 1/7 gas tank.. umm what is a good gas for a set up like that??

[Gee]

I haven't been into nitro very long but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. Actually I've done some searching on that question also. Seems that the names of Byron fuel and Trintiny White Horse or wisper horse. Man I just had the name of it and now I can't remember. I know it was trinity something white. But it was a concensus that Traxxas Fuel left residue and gummed stuff up. I think I even read that here at RCM. Been surfing a lot of nitro places lately.

RC_KAOS THanks a lot for that post. I am going to check for leaks on the jato first thing.


It was this forum
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5485
Trinity Monster Power not white horse. O'Donnell, and Byron seems to be consider high on the lists.

Anyways the thread talks about the brands of fuel but not the percentage of nitro.

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Remember to use Copper Gasket sealant as it has a better temp range than the other gasket sealants

[Gee]

Cooper Gasket sealant like this stuff?
http://www.wesleyssupplyhouse.com/br...e-Sealant.html

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Originally Posted by Gee

Cooper Gasket sealant like this stuff?
http://www.wesleyssupplyhouse.com/br...e-Sealant.html

Bingo, although there is just Normal Cooper instead of Ultra Cooper which will be cheaper