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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.27.2008, 07:29 PM
I don't like the body clips or the relative flimsiness of your typical lexan body, but the way I land from jumps and cartwheels, I'm glad I didn't spend a lot of time making a body because it would most definitely get wrecked fast.
As such, I don't spend a lot of time painting and trimming them. Most of my work goes to making things durable and pretty on the inside.
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 07:40 PM
Thanks for all the compliments so far guys :)
Linc, I could reproduce it in its entirety, but it would take 2- months and I'd have to charge an arm and both legs lol.
Neil, 1-1/4", 1/8" wall box section was used primarily, with other pieces using 1-3/4", both bandsawed into channel, angle and combinations thereof. Once I had a rough blueprint for the a-arm pivot blocks, I milled them out of the same plastic I'm now using for the tower uprights, I don't know what it is, (it's some nylon variant) and is extremely tough, yet it machines like butter.
The new shock mount pieces (alum) are temporary, as are the wing and wing mounts. Just 'proving" parts before I settle on material. I had to make new 'T' sleeves for the bigbores because the Trinity spings are FAT and were almost going over the stock T washers, those are delrin.
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 07:46 PM
...And onto the underside shots
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 07:50 PM
And the under-underside
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 08:03 PM
The steering layout was a tough one, and not very pretty. I remade the draglink from .132" stainless, also the lower tie-in bracket is .075" SS. There's stainless scattered throughout, the motor mount is also .132" SS, the 'windows' are .030 mirrored SS, and there is .012 sandwiched between the center backbone and the outrigger channel (battery cradles) to provide alignment for the round diff output moldings, and for assembly. Also for simplicity I only used 3 fastener sizes, M3, SAE 6-32 and SAE 10-32, all stainless. The skidplate is another unknown plastic, it's waxy, and very easy to work with, and the front bumper is for a Nitro 4Tec, and is also temporary. Originally I had used 1/4" smoked lexan that was actually cut out of a Pioneer bandpass sub box lol. And all of the other material was free ;)
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Old Skool
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Posts: 7,494
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Devon, England
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08.27.2008, 08:05 PM
Thats some clever fabrication going on in there- like a volvo; boxxie, but safe...
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.27.2008, 08:05 PM
So, how easy is it to get to a broken diff, or whatever needs servicing?
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 08:14 PM
Ah yes I know what you mean Brian, my roof was pristine until last night when I put it on it's lid and skated it about 40 feet on the pavement..... ouch!
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Guest
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08.27.2008, 08:19 PM
Dang, that is one crazy E-Maxx. It looks like it can handle a whole lot of abuse!
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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08.27.2008, 08:27 PM
Brian, the diffs are buried, that is a downside. Easily 1/2 hour to get to them, which is another reason I am using a spool. I only need to worry about bearings in the rear, and with the spool there's no axial distortion to put side loads on the bearings.
Thye front was just upgraded to the Revo diff, and I did a simple mod, just drilled the 4 existing screw holes in the diff cup and tapped them 4-40, which is only slightly larger than 2mm, but has much more thread depth, and they are the full length of the holes. I am using standard bearing grease in the trans and pumpkins, and the front cup.
The upside is.... everything else is very quickly serviceable. The trans is out in less than 5 mins, and just by pulling the skidplate I can lube or remove the centerdrives.
It is in some ways like working on a 1:1, there is a very specific sequence, and one forgotten item may take an hour to re-install, so I don't do that lol.
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NeuMaxx
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Posts: 1,286
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Near New Orleans
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11.11.2008, 12:19 AM
Old thread but after you posted for the Al carriers and I saw your Avatar I had to go looking. Major props that is one sick build!
Last edited by mkrusedc; 11.11.2008 at 02:11 AM.
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RC-Monster Square Tube
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Posts: 1,367
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: CNY
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11.11.2008, 12:27 AM
Thank you sir.
You guys are real hobby professionals, so I take the compliments here in the highest regard!
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Posts: 4,529
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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11.11.2008, 12:30 AM
Hey now, I remember this one too! That is some fine work you've done. I wish I had the tools to do the same. I think when I get aroud to building a crawler I'm gonna do something like that for the body instead of the standard roll cage w/polycarbonate thing.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 655
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: foothills, North Carolina
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11.11.2008, 01:01 AM
WOW!!! That's one heck of a truck! Some real nice custom mods on it!
P.S. I'd like to see it race lol just run everyone over.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 5,061
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks CA
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11.11.2008, 10:49 AM
Very very nice. Looks very "yar."
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