G2r Revo Project

[Arct1k]

Here you go - Just watch those temps on the 9XL - I toasted mine on 6s - It got v hot and the rotor separated... You should look at a castle combo pre-order - That will put a HUGE smile on your face!

[Hardstyle]

Nice, at first I tought something similar, but ended putting the esc top of the rear suspension cause it was easier to mount.

Yes mmm combo is in my mind all the time . But have to wait that castle can fix all the problems what they are having with the controller..

Originally Posted by Arct1k

Here you go - Just watch those temps on the 9XL - I toasted mine on 6s - It got v hot and the rotor separated... You should look at a castle combo pre-order - That will put a HUGE smile on your face!

I think I still have some bad solder joint somewhere, when pulling wot it just cuts and same thing at the start up. Could it disturb brakes too? Now it feels like driving without them in another words they are very weak..

[suicideneil]

Could be another bad joint, or dirty connectors, or maybe your throttle trim got bumped? I'd say re-check all your wiring and then reprogramme the radio to the esc, making sure everything is at neutral.

[Hardstyle]

Thanks suicide, I will re-check everything now. Just noticed that my rear diff jamms occasionally, looked in and the diff oil were all grey but all the theets were still in place.. Maybe bad shimming? Luckily I got extra diff.

Here's couple videos as I promised, nothing fancy though. I know quality sucks, iPhones camera isn't the best of the best.. It's running hot with the body on. Esc 60C-70C (140-158F), Motor 60C (140F) & batterys 30C(86F)

[suicideneil]

Hmm, with the esc hotter than the motor, that wouod indicate over geared, though, it might also be the timing on the esc- if its not set to lowest, do so and see how it reacts. Runs fine though, very nimble truck.

[Hardstyle]

Changed the rear diff to revos stock one, seems to run fine and at the same time added couple fans over the motor and esc. Temps were: esc around 40C (104F), motor around 40C (104F) and batterys 23C (73F) without body. I think it will still run too hot with the body on, maybe couple holes to it helps, we'll see. And I noticed that the pinion and spur mesh were too tight, now it rolls much better. Found out the braking weirdness too, it was set too low from the radio . Still have to find the damn solder joint

Padding for the batterys

Btw, any tricks for the spurs nylock, it keeps popping out, already tryed loctite..

[suicideneil]

Really, my nut on the spurgear shaft has never undone by itself. If there is enough shaft length*, then you could put another nut (nyloc or plain) on too, and that will prevent the main nyloc nut from undoing/backing off.

* Filthy smut & inuendo purely unintentional.

[Hardstyle]

Yea, The problem is that the shaft isn't long enough for the nylock, it's holding on the lips. Anyway stick a more loctite, seems to hold so far.. I know this sounds very freaky

Bashed the hell out of the car today without body, temps were allright imo. esc & motor stayed near 50C (122F) and batterys only 23C (73F) outside 12C (54F).

[suicideneil]

Thats very odd. Assuming the slipper is put together correctly, there should be plenty of thread left for another nut- got a close up & in focus picture of your slipper? Im baffled...

[Hardstyle]

Sure. Found these from here, I hope Dafni wouldn't mind for borrowing 'em. But relly the problem is same

[feistyacorn]

Hi Hardstyle! I have a Strobe slipper too and what I did was look at what way the nut spins when you push the truck forward. The spur should spin in a counter clockwise direction when you look at it. This causes the nut to tighten or not move at all when the slipper is active. If your spur is going in a clockwise direction you can flip the diffs to get the spur to go in a counter clockwise direction. It’s kinda hard to explain in writing but I hope this helps. Sweet build by the way!

[Hardstyle]

Thanks! Yes, I know what you mean.. So basically if I pull 180 to the gearbox, it would tighten the nut all the time when driving forward? When I got the roller the gearbox were the other way around.. Have to look more into it. That was good tip!

[suicideneil]

Ah, you have a Strobe slipper, that explains it. Yeah, if you flip the tranny around, then switch a couple motor > esc wires around, the truck will still travel forwards when you pull the throttle, but the nut on the slipper wont undo as the gears are spinning the opposite direction to before.

[Hardstyle]

Ok, Im quite confident now that the esc is the reason what causes the gogging. All the joints has been re-soldered and it didn't help anything.. Anyways im looking new esc and motor so, have to drive with that thing till I got the new stuffs. I have been thinking Lutach's 6s esc and medusas 1600kv 80mm motor. What do you guys think? Motor too overkill?

Changed the wheels and 23mm hex's


Can't wait to rain stops

[suicideneil]

I dont think it will be overkill, but it will be a torque monster. The LT-6s esc and a 1600kv motor on 5-6s lipo will be a very nice setup. Ofcourse, there is the new Hobbywing 6s 150amp esc comming soon too....