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Arct1k
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11.25.2008, 08:45 AM

I would check your mesh and the motor connections - I've never know cogging to strip a spur.

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jhautz
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11.25.2008, 01:01 PM

So the deans plug shorted across the battery? Am I understanding that right?

I had an old BK system that had something wrong with it, It cogged so bad it literally ripped a round chunk out of the plastic spur gear. so it can happen.

I cant ever remember getting cogging from my R1s except for the time I had a capacitor wire break. If you are getting any cogging then there is something not right. Make sure the capacitor didn't get damaged in the short. Double check that all of your connections are still good. Not sure exactly how it shorted but if enough juice went through it to fuse the deans plug together you certainly could have melted a marginal solder joint somewhere.

I doubt that low radio batteries would cause cogging, but a main battery pack that isn't putting out enough current certainly would cause it. How long was the pack shorted? Completely fusing the deans together seems pretty extreme. Are you sure the battery is OK?


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Last edited by jhautz; 11.25.2008 at 01:02 PM.
   
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gtxracer
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11.25.2008, 03:26 PM

I took a closer look. When that little strip connected the polarities it heated the plastic and caused it to melt around the connectors. They were fused together, but not touching. It was just the plastic that melted.

Shorted for a split second. I saw the spark, immediately pulled them apart, then realized the plastics had melted and hardened. There were two deans connectors. One on the battery and R1Pro. The other was an inline "plug in" style on the BEC. I wanted it like that so I could take off the bec quickly if I wanted to instead of directly soldering it to the + and - of the ESC.

It didn't fuse the + and - together on the battery. It just fused those first two deans connectors together. Does this make any sense? I can take a picture if I need to. Thanks for the help.


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jhautz
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11.25.2008, 04:09 PM

Check all of the connections and even resolder them all just to make sure you have good joints. Also do a good inspection of the Capacitors to make sure they werent damaged.

What settings are you using on the R1Pro? Set the start power to low and the timing all the way down to start with. Do you have the Hotwire for the R1Pro? If not, you should get it. It allows you to adjust some stuff that the standard button programing will not.


I can't decide if its more fun
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or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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