Kyosho Inferno 777 ST-R 1/8 Scale Truggy

[SV6000]

Once the diffs are run in you need to shim them again. Make sure the pinion is seated all the way. The way i shimmed mine was as per the manual and i am having no trouble at all. Just follow the manual

[Jason]

anyways I would give a try to this gears for the front and rear diffs...

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9010

and

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9009

I think it would direct fit!

[Jason]

anyways I would give a try to this gears for the front and rear diffs...

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9010

and

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9009

I think it would direct fit!

[BrianG]

Duplicate threads merged...

[Jason]

sorry lol

so guys what the best gearing for running on 4s with 2370kv motor ?

[George16]

Start with 46/13.

[Jason]

do you think 50/13 would be overgeared or undergeared ?

[George16]

undergeared

[Jason]

are you sure ?

[George16]

I'm running 50/15 and my temps are the following:

ST-RR
50/15, 5S

ESC – 104
Motor – 131
Batteries – 100


However, give it a try first and see what the temps are then just use the guideline below.

I got this from one of the posts here in RCM:

Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared
Cool motor, hot controller, hot batteries = overgeared
Warm motor, warm controller, warm batteries = happy components
hot motor, hot ESC, and hot batteries = overgeared

Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more

The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.

The list goes on, but this can give you an idea of things to watch for.

[Jason]

thanks for this guideline bro

[Jason]

which setting do ya use guys in mamba esc with your kyosho st-r the ideal one ...

for :

brake amount
punch control
start power
drag brake
reverse throttle
motor timing

[George16]

My settings:

brake amount - 50%
punch control - 50%
start power - Low
drag brake - Disabled
reverse throttle - 50%
motor timing - 10%

[Jason]

stock brake curve and throttle curve right ?

im just back to upgrade my mamba max esc firmware to 1.20 better than the 1.17 one ?

and do ya use Porportional w/ reverse lockout or Forward to Brake to Reverse ?

[George16]

Originally Posted by Jason

stock brake curve and throttle curve right ?

I'm using stock brake and throttle curves

im just back to upgrade my mamba max esc firmware to 1.20 better than the 1.17 one ?

1.20 is way better.

and do ya use Porportional w/ reverse lockout or Forward to Brake to Reverse ?

Porportional w/ reverse lockout