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mistercrash
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03.07.2009, 03:48 PM

And this is what was said about the nut. It works this has been race tested and I never lost a wheel. I don't even use Locktite anymore.


And one last thing I did about the set screw. I install the adapter and thingamajiger on a stub axle, chuck it in the drill press and with a cut off wheel on my Dremel, I make a slot all around for an O ring. No need for Locktite and no more lost set screws. The O ring keeps it from backing out too far.


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Finnster
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03.07.2009, 05:51 PM

Nice work MC. We were working along similar thoughts.

Here is mine. Basically what I was saying. A couple reasons I went the way I did. I had intended to initially use stainless steel. It doesn't rust (obviously) but two its harder than alu, but softer than most steels so it wouldn't be too hard to work with, especially the tapping. It also was available in 6mm dia. As it turned out, it was still pretty tough to run a tap thru, and I didn't want to break my tap. I bailed on it and cut up a bent pushrod instead. Also, I don't have a drill press yet, so making a really straight bore hole w/ hand tools would be tough. Using the bit I had, I sent it down the backside of the adapter so it would automatically line up. I would have liked to leave some of the adapter left so the threaded insert would lock into the adapter, but it was too much of a pita for the tools I had. If possible I would try it this way.

The pushrods are 7075, and are threaded in rather than bouncing on threads, so it should last a while. Also, I used a 5mm setscrew locked in w/ red locktite on the end so it could be removed w/ a hex wrench. As said, the Revo soon enough went on the shelf, so I haven't put tons of hrs on it.



   
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mistercrash
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03.07.2009, 06:49 PM

That's cool, very functionnal. Yes it appears we got the same idea and that was to keep the adapters off that threaded portion of the stub axles and tighten everything up. Not to long ago, I also tried to make my own stub axles that have no threads. This would've simplified the process since the only thing needed to be done to the adapters would've been to drill through with a 6 mm drill bit and then it would've slid on the stub axle with no slop.


I decided to stay with the way I did it at first because I now use Summit shafts on my Revo and I just don't have the tooling to machine a threadless stub axle with a CV style joint on the opposite end.


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JThiessen
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03.07.2009, 10:21 PM

Finnster - do you get any wobble out of that? In the top pic, it looks as though you've got a little runout issue on the spliced shaft - but it may be an optical illusion.


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Finnster
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03.08.2009, 08:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
Finnster - do you get any wobble out of that? In the top pic, it looks as though you've got a little runout issue on the spliced shaft - but it may be an optical illusion.
Not entirely sure what you mean, but I forgot to note that I had to sandpaper the pushrod adapter I made just a bit to make it fit nicely. As said I don't have a drill press yet (always on the wish list..) and I used a SAE bit to drill out the hex. The adapter was made as close to straight as I can make it by hand. Its quite tight and no wobble, but slides on easy enough.
   
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JERRY2KONE
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Tried these? - 03.08.2009, 12:48 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
That's cool, very functionnal. Yes it appears we got the same idea and that was to keep the adapters off that threaded portion of the stub axles and tighten everything up. Not to long ago, I also tried to make my own stub axles that have no threads. This would've simplified the process since the only thing needed to be done to the adapters would've been to drill through with a 6 mm drill bit and then it would've slid on the stub axle with no slop.


I decided to stay with the way I did it at first because I now use Summit shafts on my Revo and I just don't have the tooling to machine a threadless stub axle with a CV style joint on the opposite end.
I wanted to see if I could come up with an 8mm set myself and decided to purchase some Firehammer stubs and convert them. I drilled them for the pin, and then cut them to length. They only cost like $9, and then I can use some of the 17mm adapters out there without issue. This is what I came up with using the HPI 17mm adapters with the fireHammer stub axles.
() I am having a full set up RCAlloy dogbones made for them.


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