Spyder diffs

[captain harlock]

Here you go. This is much better I think:
- half case trans
- steel idlers
- strobe slipper
- single speed conv
- super maxx ext drive shafts
- super maxx servo saver kit
- T- bonz hardened steel cvds
- hex adapter
- body ext
- 1/8 diffs
- FLM chassis
- FLM trans skid plate
- VBS bulks with skids
- tony's screw kit ( super maxx or e-maxx?)
- FUN600-15 motor
- racerX susp
- RacerX shocks
- stock motor mount
- stock pillow balls
- other stock parts

[Sylvester]

Those t-bonz cvds, id use UE there for sure.

[captain harlock]

Okay, UE cvds then.

[squeeforever]

i would also use the flm 1/8th scale hybrid bulks. the warranty cant be beat and neither can the price. also, if you get the racer-x i would get the setback arms. not sure what your gonna do with this truck but you might want to consider the gorillamaxx.

[Papa]

If ya' can swing the UE VBS do it. Check yourself on the pillow balls, steel about $26, titanium about $44, both are sets of eight.

[Sylvester]

But you'd save alot of money going hybrid other than VBS.

[mmdooley]

Go to thread is( FLM arms any good, seriously? ) The truck on there is all FLM . Good price. Good guarantee, Good looking.
But I might be a little biased lol:D

[Sneeck]

Your choice, i'm not going to brag about ue being better over flm(actually I am) but they got a point on saving money. If your budget is only 1,5k you are better off with the flm hybrid. If it was my choice i'd save some more money and buy a vbs. But that's me.

[captain harlock]

Yeah, but there must be something that makes the VBS better than the Hybrids, 500 dollars over 150-190 with shock towers is plain rediculous. FLM makes all their parts out of 6061 alloy, but Ue makes theirs out of 70something alloy. Probably that's the reason. I can surely afford an all UE truck, but its simply too much money. Unless I'm going to beat it up with a hammer, then the UE might be a good choice. Also I want a truck that has a variety of combinations from different manufacturers which cost around 1750 dollars including the Kontronik motor I'm planning to get. I already have a 9918/1920 8t and 149.18/ 1930 5t, but both of these motors are weak for a heavy truck. The FUN600-1500 is equal to a 1940 10T or 11T and it only costs 150 dollars with top German quality just like the Lehners. Give me more feed backs, I really like it. Thanks again.

[squeeforever]

i would go flm bulkless, ue servo saver, gorilla chassis, racer-x suspension, ue 6 spyders, flm and gorilla tranny, ue cvds.

[Sneeck]

The vbs has other suspension geometry, rear kick up like the front and caputerd hinge pin's. It's not only lighter, but nothing is as strong as the towered version.

Also try and get a vbs second hand. They go around 350'ish. Hard to come by tho.

Squee,

Why 6 spyder? If you add a few buck's you got a complete alloy diff that will never cause any problem's. More value for the money.

[captain harlock]

The 8 spyder is sold for 68 or something, is it for one set ( front diff only) or both F/R?

[captain harlock]

What's the good thing about the G-Maxx chassis? it seems a bit fragile. Also why did you recommened the racerX suspension over the Extended one? what are the things I need from the original truck to use with the aluminum one?

[Sneeck]

It's a pure racer chassis, but can take some abuse. Your a basher, so deffinatly the flm chassis will be stronger. Also you don't need a lowered battery plate, I think the limited ground clearence will effect terrain you want to bash on.

You need to find a way to mount the esc, receiver, ubec, battery pack's, solder connector's to the battery pack's, mount or make an antenna mount, body mount's, etc. Allot of little thing's that take age's to finnish.

I wouldn't go for a screw kit. Rather pick some flat head's and countersunk screw's of 6, 10, 14, 16 and 20 mm's and you'll be set. Get a nice bunch of them, like 20 of each size. You will be surprised how many screw's there are in an emaxx!

[captain harlock]

no less than 350 if I'm correct.