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wallot
RC-Monster Titanium
 
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Location: Prague, Czech Republic
08.07.2009, 06:57 PM

Yes i race.

BL truggy and Nitro Buggy

Last race I won was very dry, hardpacked track and only calibers worked well. Others were running AKA cityblocks or GRP cubics.

Holeshots would work as well but they just dont last and it can get quite costly.

One buggy race I went through two sets of M3 holeshots in two 20min mains :) But it was worth bumping up :)

For truggy I keep VTR Calibers and Revolvers, and some AKA cityblocks from times before I got VTRs. And since it is electric we dont run if it rains, thats all I need.

With buggy it is more complicated and i have tons of tires but lately again Calibers and Revolvers.

Proper tires are huge part of success

Nice thing about calibers is that they are directional
Y - more traction
A - less wear (did not try it yet)


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
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Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
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08.07.2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallot View Post
Nice thing about calibers is that they are directional
Y - more traction
A - less wear (did not try it yet)
I was wondering about that, That means you can adjust the bite by turning the tires around and even mixing with the Y vs A. Kinda like running Bowties and Crime fighters, Cool.
Thanks.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
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zeropointbug
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08.07.2009, 08:24 PM

Yeah, never noticed that they were bidirectional... just making sure, when you are looking down, with the truck facing forward, the Y should be 'pointing' forward right?

I wouldn't like the idea of running two different tires, yah, the idea is there, but if your truck is setup properly (weight distribution, CoG, etc) you are going to want same tires all around. IMO.

I have had the Crimefighter LPR's for a year now without wheels for them, I finally went and got some... I'm sure they will do great for the big race I have coming up in two weeks (5 Qualifiers, and a 30 min MAIN), I didn't like the way the Bow-Ties felt on the track, felt skittish at times, and just didn't have the track in the straight to put down the power I would like.

I got a bunch of parts (I was contemplating getting the E-Revo chassis to convert the 3.3, but it turned out to be too much right now... and besides, it would take to long, IMO, to swap batteries out during the MAIN), here are the parts that should improve track performance:

-RPM Rear Revo True Track A-Arm Conversion Black
-Traxxas Rocker Arm Set Progressive-3 Revo - Progressive 3
-Pro-Line 3.7 LPR 1/2 Offset Wheel White 17mm Hex
-New Teflon GTR shocks
-Set of E-Revo diffs
-and some of the new 13mm traxxas axle carriers for the front

These upgrades should provide the winning formula for me... I got 4th place at the last big race weekend, I was in 2nd place HOT on 1st place exhaust (he was an LST, btw), but I have two random shutdowns during the race that took over a minute to resolve... I am pretty sure now it was the BEC, so I took it out and am now using a 2s A123 pack, but I should get something lighter.

Hoping for the best!


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens

Last edited by zeropointbug; 08.07.2009 at 08:28 PM.
   
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stum
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
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08.08.2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropointbug View Post
Yeah, never noticed that they were bidirectional... just making sure, when you are looking down, with the truck facing forward, the Y should be 'pointing' forward right?

I wouldn't like the idea of running two different tires, yah, the idea is there, but if your truck is setup properly (weight distribution, CoG, etc) you are going to want same tires all around. IMO.

I have had the Crimefighter LPR's for a year now without wheels for them, I finally went and got some... I'm sure they will do great for the big race I have coming up in two weeks (5 Qualifiers, and a 30 min MAIN), I didn't like the way the Bow-Ties felt on the track, felt skittish at times, and just didn't have the track in the straight to put down the power I would like.

I got a bunch of parts (I was contemplating getting the E-Revo chassis to convert the 3.3, but it turned out to be too much right now... and besides, it would take to long, IMO, to swap batteries out during the MAIN), here are the parts that should improve track performance:

-RPM Rear Revo True Track A-Arm Conversion Black
-Traxxas Rocker Arm Set Progressive-3 Revo - Progressive 3
-Pro-Line 3.7 LPR 1/2 Offset Wheel White 17mm Hex
-New Teflon GTR shocks
-Set of E-Revo diffs
-and some of the new 13mm traxxas axle carriers for the front

These upgrades should provide the winning formula for me... I got 4th place at the last big race weekend, I was in 2nd place HOT on 1st place exhaust (he was an LST, btw), but I have two random shutdowns during the race that took over a minute to resolve... I am pretty sure now it was the BEC, so I took it out and am now using a 2s A123 pack, but I should get something lighter.

Hoping for the best!
Progressive 3 is not the best choice for the track... get the tubes, but stick w/ progressive 2 (normal w/ the small spacers).

VDP shock kit is a cheap nice buy for the revo/erevo as well - Good starting point for racing is 70wt oils front and rear, blue springs rear, silver front.

I would do all the steering mods on the traxxas pit section as it does help...

Tekno sway bars or tekno front, traxxas rear yeild nice results too.


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Ofna Hyper SC 10 Pro - Medusa 4800kv
   
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