brushless 1/5 4wd conversion about to begin! couple questions.

[nitrostarter]

Ryu: Like Mike said, I would definitely get the Pinion's hardened. They will take more of a beating than the spurs will. Remember they are turning 3 times more than the spur gear is. You may be able to get away without hardened the spurs, but the pinions are a must.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur

That pinion is really long. I was thinking about putting the set screw holes on opposite side of the hub from each other instead if "on top of " each other. That was you could make use of the entire length of the pinion if necessary.

For those who use bullet connectors: Do you cover one to prevent accidental shorting?

i thought of doing setscrew on each side but i wasnt sure if i would then need to flatten both sides of the motor shaft. remember that 37t smartech spur gear i bought? it had a hub on it and set screws on each side from each other so apparently it is something that is done.

as for bullet connectors. i used to have 6.5mm bullets on everything i ran (have switched recently) and you need to use heatshrink on both. just make sure that the batteries always have the female connector. on this project i will be running 8mm connectors on motor and esc but not on the batteries. they are just too much of a pain. here is the thing, first the larger connectors are really hard to get apart when they are put together like they should be so after a few uses you end up pulling off the heatshrink when you are trying to get the connectors apart. also, you have to always be watching and be careful for shorts. although i never had one short on me, my buddy did. just a tiny bit of gold was showing cuz his heatshrink had been pulled back, just like i mentioned, and he had his short several times, both while running and when disconnecting/connecting. so for me i run 6.5mm or 8mm connectors from motor to esc but on the lipo-esc connection i just use the losi ec5 connector. these are high current like dean or traxxas but much easier to solder and large enough for 10awg wire no problem. sure they dont have as much amp capability but i didnt notice a difference when i swithced to them from the 6.5's. anyway, just my experience with using large connectors on lipos.

oh, and thanks guys. i will take your word for it and get all these gears hardened.

[aqwut]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

i thought of doing setscrew on each side but i wasnt sure if i would then need to flatten both sides of the motor shaft. remember that 37t smartech spur gear i bought? it had a hub on it and set screws on each side from each other so apparently it is something that is done.

as for bullet connectors. i used to have 6.5mm bullets on everything i ran (have switched recently) and you need to use heatshrink on both. just make sure that the batteries always have the female connector. on this project i will be running 8mm connectors on motor and esc but not on the batteries. they are just too much of a pain. here is the thing, first the larger connectors are really hard to get apart when they are put together like they should be so after a few uses you end up pulling off the heatshrink when you are trying to get the connectors apart. also, you have to always be watching and be careful for shorts. although i never had one short on me, my buddy did. just a tiny bit of gold was showing cuz his heatshrink had been pulled back, just like i mentioned, and he had his short several times, both while running and when disconnecting/connecting. so for me i run 6.5mm or 8mm connectors from motor to esc but on the lipo-esc connection i just use the losi ec5 connector. these are high current like dean or traxxas but much easier to solder and large enough for 10awg wire no problem. sure they dont have as much amp capability but i didnt notice a difference when i swithced to them from the 6.5's. anyway, just my experience with using large connectors on lipos.

oh, and thanks guys. i will take your word for it and get all these gears hardened.

don't flatten both sides.. one set screw is enough...
Those 8mm bullets are just brutal... very strong hold, but stick to dual 5.5, 6.0 or 6.5.. works great...

[Ryu James]

got to work on the 1/5 tonight a bit. installed the battery trays. used RCM trays with 6mm Ramtech wood screws.

[brushlessboy16]

James sent you a pm the other day


Looks good so far :)

[KaztheMinotaur]

What batteries are you using again?

I was thinking about cutting off the part of the center locker top plate that the brakes hooked to but that might make a good place to mount the ESC.

[RC-Monster Mike]

It is generally considered bad practice to use set screws at 180 degrees from each other on a shaft in applications like this. This would be less secure than a single set screw. The very tip of both set screws becomes the only contact points on the shaft, while a single set screw allows the entire opposite side of the bore to engage the shaft - much larger surface area for securing the gear.
If 2 set screws are desired, they should be located 90 degrees apart. :)

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur

What batteries are you using again?

I was thinking about cutting off the part of the center locker top plate that the brakes hooked to but that might make a good place to mount the ESC.

i am using NeuEnergy 5s 30c 5000mah. 2 of them. if i was just going to use the stock center top plate and not mounting anything to it i would cut off that side part where the stock brakes were. i am actually going to make my own center plate out of carbon fiber and make it large enough to mount the stock rx box where my esc will be. i will also have a little pulley mounted that will direct the cables from the integy disc brakes to the brake servo. this is my plan anyway. but of course sometimes things dont always go as planned when you start building. but i defintely want to mount my esc on top of the center diff so that it is between the motor and batteries. that way i wont have to run any wires that are too long. depending on how i cool things i may make a larger carbon rear top plate also to mount a water tank and pump on. as soon as i get my frickin motor mount back from CNC i will be able to really start on this. i dont want to do anything until i get the motor mounted and know exactly where it will be.

[Ryu James]

hey Mike,
can you tell me the hardness rating on your mod1.5 gears? i contacted a local shop to harden my gears for me but they need to know how hard to make them and also what grade of steel they are. i am gonna check with SDP on the steel rating but i was hoping you could tell me how hard your gears are. Thanks.

[RC-Monster Mike]

48 Rockwell hardness on my gears. I think the SDP gears are made of 12L14 steel, which can only be case hardened(this is OK, but not as durable overall as through-hardened gears of the correct material - less longevity)

[Ryu James]

woohoo! i got my motor mount finished today. went into shop and finished up work on it with CNC friend. turned out sweet. i made 3 of them so i have 2 extra. if anyone is interested in one pm me for pricing.

so here are some pics. let me explain a couple of things first. the notch on one side of the face of the motor was necessary to give enough clearance for the center diff outdrive cup. i couldve done the part without the notch but that would have limited gear selection.

the reamed out insidea area of the mount is in 3 steps. first outer width fits perfect around the fins of the motor, 2nd width fits snug over the screws that hold that front endbell on, and the 3rd width fits snugly around the face of the motor which is the smallest diameter. fits like a glove.

the motor mount will sit on 1" wide x 2.5" long x 3/16" thick plates that will allow the motor to slide 3/4" side to side to adjust for gear selection and mesh. this allows me to go from 12t to as high as like 20t pinion gear. the plates didnt get done today but will be done tomorrow.

i got the 40t spur machined and its in the pics. still needs to be hardened though.

anyway, i am really happy with how the mount turned out. it will be mounted using 5mm screws throughout. there are no holes in the top of the mount yet for a fan since i have not recieved a 60mm fan. i willl just drill and tap those myself.

[Ryu James]

[jnev]

Great work James! Really coming along nicely! I'll be watching this thread for updates.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by jnev

Great work James! Really coming along nicely! I'll be watching this thread for updates.

thanks Jnev!!

[Metallover]

Wow. I've seen your kits before and I had some really dang high expectations when you said you were doing a 5th scale. Needless to say, I'm blown away. Great job so far!

Can't wait to see it completed!